Hello Ron B,
1.13 Million km
What size V8?
Rover V8..40 years and counting....what an engine!!
Ron.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Hello Ron B,
1.13 Million km
What size V8?
Rover V8..40 years and counting....what an engine!!
Ron.
So the 4.0 can be made into a 4.6 with a different crankshaft - what size the 3.9 be made into with bits obtained in Australia?
Likewise what can a 3.5 be morphed into?
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Hello Garry,
To transform the 4.0 into the 4.6 parts wise you need the 4.6 crank, connecting rods and pistons and camshaft as all are distinct from the 4.0. In addition changes to the engine management system to accomodate the different fueling requirements.
The 3.9 and 4.2 litre engines share the same block, so you can turn your 3.9 into a 4.2 by changing the crank, connecting rods and pistons.
Ron.
Almost forgot,...3.9 to 4.2 fueling and ignition changes too.
Best to leave 3.5 as 3.5.
Ron.
As I understand it, the question was about upgrading a D2 to 4.6 litres. I have just done that due to Nos 5 and 8 liners slipping.
I used a factory new 4.6 complete except for heads and injection system.
We reconditioned the heads and serviced the injectors, had the radiator (near new) tested for damage after the liners slipped and pressurised the cooling system. We replaced the plugs (different heat range) and plug leads. The coil packs were near new and we left them alone. We replaced the engine mounts (one was broken).
We bolted the new motor to the existing ZF HP22 transmission which had only recently had a major service at 160,000 km, bolted on the heads and injection system, exhaust etc etc.
It has just towed a 2.5 tonne Jayco Sterling Outback to Adelaide and back (2400 km round trip) and a shorter trip, and it handles that really well. It was a bit sluggish coming back from Temora last week, pulling the van, but ok. Found the No 8 lead had separated from the coil pack when we got home, so had come home on 7 cylinders.
The engine transforms the car when towing, and is smoother and nicer in some undefinable way when not towing. It uses less fuel than the 4.0, probably because you get reasonable performance at lower throttle openings. We have been getting 14 litres/100 km without the van on the highway at 100 kph, and around 25-28 litres/100km towing the van at around 85 in third, but we had to replace the air flow meter which failed (again) during that trip, so might do better with the new one.
It was not a cheap experience, and you need to think hard about how much you like the vehicel and how long you want to keep it.
Hope this is what you were after.
Thanks, grumndriva. You answered the question. At the end of the day my d1 has given me the most value out of any 4by i've owned. It's been great fun a little expensive at times, but great fun. My reasoning to the minister for war and finance to keep putting new bits on it and fixing it when i break it is that i want to keep it until it probably meets it's end. Which will more than likely be a roll over somewhere. Nearly happened last week, but didn't thanks to scouse. Tied me off to his RR and stopped it. At the end of the day it's a keeper. Albeit a money pit. If and when the time comes it'll get a new drive line combo, OUCH... on the hip pocket but who cares.
so the outcome is that i have decided to have my block repaired and stick with it as a 4L motor due to the costs associated with getting good parts to make it a 4.6L.
block and heads are at the engine rebuilders now, they will remove the liner, weld up the hole in the block and fit a new liner... apparently this issue only happens because the heads are over tightened at the factory.
the heads and engine are being cleaned in a chemical bath.
new valve stem seals, new cam and cam shaft, new big end bearings and rings, all new cooling hoses, new radiator, new water pump and new serpentine belt...
it should run like a new machine once its all back together next week which will be good. the car was running ok when i got it 3.5 months ago and i was happy with its performance (even with a crook AFM and oxy sensors) but it has been progressively getting worse over the last few months so once its back together as a rebuilt 4L i should be happy.
Thanks for all the info guys, will let you know how it goes.
Andrew
Good decision in the end I think.
Still, the thought of the 4.6L got a lot of us thinking..
I'd like to think that if/when mine needs something major I'd go for a total re-build or even a new motor. Even if it costs $5k-$8k (SWMBO may have something to say here)
...in theory, its cheaper than buying another second hand car with a whole new bunch of unknowns. ughh shudder.....
Gonna try tracking down some of the previous owners of my D2 and get a the full history. The more I crawl around it, the more recently fitted new parts I noticeeg, front prop looks new, rad looks new, engine mounts look new.
when i got my car it ran well and it continued to go down hill when i got it, i think it may have had some chemiweld added to it to patch it up for a period of time... i wasnt aware of that when i purchased it.
changing motors, getting engineers certificates and or upgrading the old one became to expensive when im not really paying for labour as my brother is doing it (i think just a lifetime supply of grog for him from now on) so spending more money on new crank and bits to go to 4.6L although enticing, would have meant no bullbar or CDL for a few months....
apparently the standard 4L v8 when running well is quite good, i am looking forward to it when its rebuilt.
Andrew
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