the cheap ebay chainsaws yours still going?

**wrinklearthur** · 13th March 2012, 10:08 PM

Originally Posted by rick130

Plenty of blokes are good on one side, but can't get the angles right the other way, even when using a guide.
Check it, it makes a difference.

That sums me up as the eye sight has left the length of my arms way too short.

True ripping is a different kettle of fish all together and I've done bugger all.
IIRC the top plate angle is around 10-15*,

There is a need to know about this, for the bods that are using saws in chainsaw mills, used for cutting small linear quantities of timber.

Hope that helps some.

Terrific ! that is a lot of help and I did guess that you may have been able to lay your hands on that information . So a big thank you for doing that from me and I'm sure there are others as appreciative as well.
.

**350RRC** · 13th March 2012, 10:33 PM

Originally Posted by rick130

No, if you're heavy handed it leaves them all burned up

The cutter is hard chromed on the outside of the tooth, that's what gives you the life. (and why you file the rakers and cutter from the inside out or take the teeth off the file too quickly)

Thanks for this info Rick.

On an older thread I pointed out why electric sharpeners led to uneven (curved) cutting angles and advised using a file with a gauge attached, same number of strokes on each cutter from the same angle of 'attack' (i.e. half from one side of the bar that cut one way, half from the other).

Was unaware of the hard chrome factor and will go from the soft side in future. Makes real sense which side to file from.

Razor blades were subject to a patent years ago on the same principal (soft side corroded / wore away and were self sharpening but the big players apparently bought the rights and that's why throwaway stuff is not cheap.

Snow ski edges is something else similar I recall.

DL

**rick130** · 14th March 2012, 09:27 AM

Arthur, I've been lucky and had some tips passed on by some very experienced loggers and some of the fastest chainsaw racers in the country, and the racers don't push a saw through during the crosscut.

If you want to quiz someone on milling and what is needed for Aussie timber, read up and ask BobL on arboristsite.com. http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/
and here SMALL TIMBER MILLING - Woodwork Forums

Bob's in WA, a very smart cookie and bloody nice bloke and his hobby is milling.

350RRC, I knew about the hard chrome on the outside of the cutter tooth for years, but some dumb arse couldn't work out why he got bugger all life out of his raker files until about twelve or eighteen months ago

It makes a huge difference with the rakers to file them the right way and you increase file life by about ten fold.

**howdy** · 18th March 2012, 03:26 PM

i'm nottotally happy - cost me 10% of total cost to replace pull cord I broke 2 weeks ago (new cord $5 at bunnings)
other than that no problems at all with mine
bought one for old man at same time and his has leaked oil since day 1 and we just cannot get chain to cut properly on that saw
cannot whinge though as it cost over $700 about 3 years ago for major service to my old stihl 76cc jobbie
the ebay saw is less than new chain and bar.
cheers
Howard

**DeanoH** · 18th March 2012, 07:15 PM

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

I told you I was a novice when it came to chain saws, you have just proven that

................I also note that when refitting the chain would it be correct that they are directional, ..................

Most definitely. The unsharpened back of the tooth won't do much cutting if the chain is mounted backwards. That's assuming the chain drive worked in the opposite direction. Have a look at the teeth on the chain and with the side cover off look at the drive mechanism and it should (hopefully) all become clear.

Stihl have a jig which fits on the chain file. It ensures the correct depth of cut and gives a visual guide as to the correct angle of cut with lines scored into the top (just visible in the picture) of the jig.

I've used these jigs for many years and find them easy to use, especially in the bush when giving the chain a quick lick when re-fuelling.
It's particularly useful when shappening lighter weight chain where it is easy to file down into the tooth rather than back into the tooth for the correct result.
As a general rule of thumb I aim for one tank of fuel and oil reservoir to run out at the same time and when re-fuelling give the chain a quick lick.

Deano

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