Thread: Electric fence question...No gate tapes

It's probably a good idea to sit down with a piece of paper and roughly draw out a plan of your property showing fences, gates and where the electric fence unit will be located. This makes it easier to work out where the gaps will be in the system (for no closed loops).

To make your fence easier to manage it's best to have switches at various points so that the fence can be isolated into sections that are/are not energised. This is quite important as when the fence is grounded out by a fallen branch for example this (electrically) drags down the whole fence. Makes fault finding a lot easier.

Deano

Originally Posted by dullbird

so I would probably be better to run a single tape around the whole lot then (all paddocks and just run it at as single wire and not close any of them off to complete the circuit..

thank you all for your help


Thanks Mike thats what I wondered thanks for confirming......so the click you hear from the fence is simply and electric pulse running down the wire

Thats what we did Lou, single wire around the whole lot. Works a treat, poly pipe underground across gateways. The testing tools are great as Andy said to check your power at different points.

cheers

Originally Posted by dullbird

Thanks Mike thats what I wondered thanks for confirming......so the click you hear from the fence is simply and electric pulse running down the wire

Yep - the transformer charges up a couple of big capacitors and lets a pulse off down the fence every second or so. Old fences used to have a mechanical set of points - they'd hit, charge the fence, bounce, hit, charge the fence, bounce, every second or so, newer fences have a solid state circuit board that does the same thing. The click you hear in the fence is the electric charge - hold a blade of grass to the fence and you'll feel the pulse/hear the click every second or so...

Originally Posted by DeanoH

It's probably a good idea to sit down with a piece of paper and roughly draw out a plan of your property showing fences, gates and where the electric fence unit will be located. This makes it easier to work out where the gaps will be in the system (for no closed loops).

To make your fence easier to manage it's best to have switches at various points so that the fence can be isolated into sections that are/are not energised. This is quite important as when the fence is grounded out by a fallen branch for example this (electrically) drags down the whole fence. Makes fault finding a lot easier.

Deano

yeah good idea

here you are

the red is the fences I would like to electrify for two reasons one to protect the post and rail from being eaten and lent on for arse scratching hence the stand off... and two my neighbouring fence near paddock 1 and 2 is barb wire so keep the horses away from that.. the fence at the top of the paddock 1 and 5 is also barbed wire but I'm growing a hedge there as soon as the hedge is big enough no need for electric.

I can electrify the house fence to join the two long fences up between 2,3 and 4 but just showing you where I want it currently the blue lines are the gates.

the fences between 2,3 and 4 are not in yet.

[QUOTE=dullbird;1824695]So I could just get a small amout of this wire run it under ground through some pipe and attach it to the tape on either side when it comes out the ground?

am I reading you right.


Yep, thats the way

For what it is worth, my practice for underground links is to use the special insulated wire you can buy for the purpose (do not use copper wire). This is threaded through a length of the 12mm pvc tubing used for garden fixed watering systems and then through 40mm black PVC pipe. This gives three layers of insulation/waterproofing. At each end the whole lot is brought up vertically onto the fence, and then bent sharply 180 degrees for the last six inches of the largest tubing so the open end points straight down, secured by binding with tie wire. This keeps the water out.

If vehicles go over it, bury at least six inches, although even just laid on the surface will last a few years. (but is liable to catching on vehicles).

Put in plenty of switches for fault finding.

John

Originally Posted by Grappler

The wire under the ground between the fence post needs to be insulated.
Rural supply outlets have this type of insulated wire. Its good to put it inside some irrigation pipe to protect it.
The tape would soon short out to the ground if buried, even if inside a pipe

X2 That's the way I did it.

Originally Posted by dullbird

yeah good idea ........................................... here you are

As an example, if your electric fence unit was in the shed in paddock 1. You could 'electrify' your whole property as it is now and not have to go under gates at any point, and assuming you had one gate and not 2 between paddocks 2/3/4 (when it happens) you still would not need to go under any gates.

Can you see it ?

Deano