The COVID-19 & Corona free thread.

[Epic_Dragon]

What do I lube up under there? Just any moving bits I can see/feel?
Im just relieved as malicious damage to my transmission caused issues last year. Was worried something from that. But so glad!

Quite common, Leonnie. A bit of use can free it up. Better to get under it and give it a lube. When I changed the auto in mine I used the TC off the donor car. Mistake, as I don't think it had used the CDL or high/low system at all, where I had in mine. However, I was able to coerce mine into working with a little lube and some brute force. Pretty sure your number plate will get you through.

[Epic_Dragon]

Sure do, probably get my dear friends at hills auto electrical to sort the light electrical stuff im no good at hahaha! Probably explode my car accidentally

Good stuff.

You do want to sort the light or switch out, but now you can also get back to testing the difference in capability with or without CDL with some cross axle challenges.

[discorevy]

Good stuff.

You do want to sort the light or switch out, but now you can also get back to testing the difference in capability with or without CDL with some cross axle challenges.

Cross axle challenges are still good fun with the CDL locked but without it locked will fry the centre diff brass cone shims
Rebuild =not good fun.

Sure do, probably get my dear friends at hills auto electrical to sort the light electrical stuff im no good at hahaha! Probably explode my car accidentally

If you crawl underneath and run your hand up between the transmission and front transfer case nose cone you will feel a switch. this should normally have 2 wires on it if transfer case is original, but as it sounds like you had a bad experience with a workshop , these wires may not have been refitted or even broken off at the spade terminals on the switch.
If the 2 wires are still on, then ground to earth or together and if the light comes on, put into diff lock then slowly wind the switch in ( undo lock nut first) until light comes on ( it is a fiddly job though so dear friends are good here )

[DiscoDB]

Cross axle challenges are still good fun with the CDL locked but without it locked will fry the centre diff brass cone shims
Rebuild =not good fun.

Only if you drive like a Toyota driver (and don’t have traction control).

Never had a CDL on my D2. As soon as one wheel started to spin, the traction control would kick in. Near impossible to fry the centre diff as it would all happen fairly sedately.

The great thing about the D2 is you don’t have to generate rooster tails to get over a cross axle challenge, so the centre diff is pretty safe with or without CDL.

Of course this is as long as your traction control is working (and you take it slow and steady).

[discorevy]

Only if you drive like a Toyota driver (and don’t have traction control).

Never had a CDL on my D2. As soon as one wheel started to spin, the traction control would kick in. Near impossible to fry the centre diff as it would all happen fairly sedately.

The great thing about the D2 is you don’t have to generate rooster tails to get over a cross axle challenge, so the centre diff is pretty safe with or without CDL.

Of course this is as long as your traction control is working (and you take it slow and steady).

All good in theory, but in practice there is too long a delay, especially in the earlier version with the early slabs unit, this is one of the reasons people go to the trouble of fitting the diff lock, even Land Rover re-introduced it in the D2a thankfully.
Slow and steady works until you need momentum as well.
Every D2 Transfer case I remove that has standard centre diff has shavings usually in the recess below the input seal. A lot of these can handle it to a degree but it depends on your tolerance to backlash.

[V8Ian]

Sure do, probably get my dear friends at hills auto electrical to sort the light electrical stuff im no good at hahaha! Probably explode my car accidentally

I'm listening out for the KABOOM!

[Epic_Dragon]

I'm listening out for the KABOOM!

[Epic_Dragon]

Thankyou! I'll get under there and suss it out

Cross axle challenges are still good fun with the CDL locked but without it locked will fry the centre diff brass cone shims
Rebuild =not good fun.




If you crawl underneath and run your hand up between the transmission and front transfer case nose cone you will feel a switch. this should normally have 2 wires on it if transfer case is original, but as it sounds like you had a bad experience with a workshop , these wires may not have been refitted or even broken off at the spade terminals on the switch.
If the 2 wires are still on, then ground to earth or together and if the light comes on, put into diff lock then slowly wind the switch in ( undo lock nut first) until light comes on ( it is a fiddly job though so dear friends are good here )

[discorevy]

Thankyou! I'll get under there and suss it out

It'll be covered in crap so might want to blast it clean first.
Also it needs to be in diff lock proper, not just the lever as it's the internal ramp inside the case that activates the switch, hope that's clearer than mud

[scarry]

Ooh, that's a bit harsh, Paul.

Bit of trivia,from my Land Rover nut brother,he is one of three I have.
The other two can’t be converted.

The VW beetle was the most reliable vehicle in the early 80’s.
And today it still wins it’s class for the most reliable vehicle,in the JD Powers US survey.
Amazing.

We then looked at LR reliability for the last few years in the survey,and it’s not improving,seems to be going the other way😩😩