AT REST
The extra choke spring on the 161 carby looks like something added by a previous owner, it's not stock. It should only be necessary if your choke cable can't push the choke flap back open because it's too weak.
Now you need to read my previous posts more carefully. The PCV is the "positive crankcase ventilation" valve and should be connected to the area under the throttle valve, with full engine vacuum. It lives at the back of the rocker cover and has nothing to do with the air cleaner. The fitting you need is a plain 90 degree elbow and hose to the side of air cleaner where the small foam air filter element lives. This is the fresh air inlet to allow "positive crankcase ventilation" to occur, ie the inside of the engine should have some clean air into it.
Now finally, the thing on the horn of the air cleaner is the hot air intake valve and should be controlled by a thermostatic valve normally screwed into the cylinder head somewhere on the manifold side. If that thermostatic valve isn't present you should just remove the device and plug up the hole in the horn. It isn't normally found on HQ's from memory.
Oh and for pictures, type "HQ 202" directly into Google and you should see something like this:
That appears to be a dead stock layout. You could easily modify the 161 air cleaner to take the fresh air hose and filter element and then it would look like that.
And here's another pic from the other side:
Lord Jock
You have it ass about Lionel.
That bracket should be bolted on via the screw on the rear right hand corner of the carby then pull the lever towards the firewall in order to choke the engine.
I am at work but tomorrow I will take a pic of mine so that you can see how it is set up.
Cheers Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
TopicToaster
Hello Bee Utey,Originally Posted by bee utey
Now you need to read my previous posts more carefully. The PCV is the "positive crankcase ventilation" valve and should be connected to the area under the throttle valve, with full engine vacuum. It lives at the back of the rocker cover and has nothing to do with the air cleaner. The fitting you need is a plain 90 degree elbow and hose to the side of air cleaner where the small foam air filter element lives. This is the fresh air inlet to allow "positive crankcase ventilation" to occur, ie the inside of the engine should have some clean air into it.
Now finally, the thing on the horn of the air cleaner is the hot air intake valve and should be controlled by a thermostatic valve normally screwed into the cylinder head somewhere on the manifold side. If that thermostatic valve isn't present you should just remove the device and plug up the hole in the horn. It isn't normally found on HQ's from memory.
Oh and for pictures, type "HQ 202" directly into Google and you should see something like this:
That appears to be a dead stock layout. You could easily modify the 161 air cleaner to take the fresh air hose and filter element and then it would look like that.
I found this photograph of a 202. However it may be out of a later model to suit my current HZ-VB carburettor. It is not the first photograph I found, of course I cannot find that one again. Anyway the new photo shows where the air cleaner hooks into the rocker cover. The label on the air cleaner reads 3.3 so it is a later model.
I might go track down a Holden HQ-HZ and have a look at a real life example of how things are arranged under the bonnet.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Wizard
Mick 88 is correct,the cable holder is shaped for that[if it is the correct holder]New something didn't look right.its only been 25 years
ForumSage
Subscriber
what he said.
Safe Travels
harry
TopicToaster
Hello Mick88, Lewy and Harry.
Thank you for your replies. I fixed the issue of how the choke pulls out from the firewall side of the carburettor. It now works how it is meant to. There was no way that I could get the thing to operate how it should yesterday.
They say a little knowledge in the hands of fools is a dangerous thing.
I think I will now go sulk off somewhere and find a nice hole to hide in for a while.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Wizard
Hi Lionel,
Best resource I have found for the red motors is OldHolden.com and they have a wiki called holdenpaedia. The page about PCV is here and there are diagrams and explanations about how it all fits together as well as photos - PCV - Holdenpaedia
I found out a lot about the carries by searching that site as well, lots of photos to be found of all the different set ups if you go looking.
Cheers,
TimJ.
Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer
Lord Jock
Lionel, you should have flat washers under those nuts holding the adaptor to the manifold too. They tend to need a nip up every once in a while (perhaps annually) as do most to screws on the carby or you will get air leaks and the old girl won't idle or run to it's optimum.Hello Bee Utey,
I checked and the spring is hooked up separately to the accelerator mechanism - well as far as I can tell. What can you see in the photographs?
Hang on the photographs are not playing nice...
Kind Regards
Lionel
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Wizard
And while we are going down memory lane,you may have to lower the float level for off road,they will tend to spill over and flood the engine at the time when light throttle is needed.
TopicToaster
Hello People with sorely tested patience,
I took some more photographs this morning - they are "After shots". I compared the new photographs to one of the earlier ones where I had to put an extra bracket on the carburettor so the choke would work. The bracket allowed me to pull the choke lever towards the radiator so that the butterfly valve would open from the position it was in when I got it from the supplier. It was the reverse of how it should be - it was normally closed. This meant I had to have the choke control in the cabin pulled out to have the butterfly valve open. Not something I was happy with at all.
I think the re-manufacturer put the choke/butterfly lever in the wrong position!
When I was moving the butterfly valve around yesterday - after I took all the springs and cables off - I felt something move. When I looked at the lever the choke cable pulls, I noticed it was in a different position. Plus the butterfly valve stayed open for the first time!
I looked at the photograph I took with the jerry-rigged choke bracket at the front of the carburettor and in that photograph the choke lever was pointing to 8 o'clock. This meant when I pulled the choke cable towards the seat the butterfly valve did not move from being closed. I had to set up the new jerry-rigged bracket so I could pull the choke lever from 8 o'clock back anti-clockwise to 4 o'clock to open the butterfly valve.
In today's photographs the choke lever is sitting at the 4 o'clock position with the butterfly valve normally open. When I want to close the butterfly valve the cable moves the lever clockwise to the 8 o'clock position.
No wonder I could not work out why the damn choke would not work properly and held the butterfly valve normally closed!
The last photograph - the one with the jerry-rigged front mounted choke bracket, the choke cable is pulled out in the cabin so in that configuration the butterfly valve was open.
It really inspires me with confidence about how well the rest of the carburettor was "re-manufactured" - not.
Kind Regards
Lionel
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