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Thread: Manual Choke 202 Holden Motor

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    Lionel, you should have flat washers under those nuts holding the adaptor to the manifold too. They tend to need a nip up every once in a while (perhaps annually) as do most to screws on the carby or you will get air leaks and the old girl won't idle or run to it's optimum.

    Cheers, Mick.

    Hello Mick,

    Thank you for the tip about the flat washers. Should they have some spring washers as well as the flat washers?

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  2. #22
    lewy is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    they will also suck the choke closed if the cable isn't adjusted properly.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello Mick,

    Thank you for the tip about the flat washers. Should they have some spring washers as well as the flat washers?

    Kind Regards
    Lionel


    No the studs are not long enough for both, and flats will suffice.
    Just be diligent and nip them, the manifold nuts, and the carby screws
    up every so often.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  4. #24
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    Air Cleaner

    Hello All,

    I picked up an air cleaner unit off a HQ 202 from a wreckers for $10. However, it did not have the air cleaner filter clip - the part that the hose from the tappet cover joins on to. This cost as a genuine part $64 Oh well betwixt them both I should be on track to getting things sorted out.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  5. #25
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    Float to move or Not?

    Hello All,

    If the arrowed part in the photograph is the float - is it meant to be able to be moved up and down with the air horn off?

    The float is ceased and I cannot move it with my fingers neither up or down. I would think that the word "float" lends itself to the fact that the device actually moves - hmmm up or down depending upon the level of the stuff it "floats" in - for example, mmmm petrol.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel
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  6. #26
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    Um yes.

    As the float bowl (that word again) fills with petrol, the 'float' floats on top of it and the little tag on the side of the pivot opposite the float, presses down on a needle. Once the float is high enough ie, there's enough petrol in the float bowl, the needle is pressed into the jet, closing it off so more petrol can't get in.

    So yes.
    Your 'float' needs to float and it needs to pivot freely around the shaft.

  7. #27
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    Well so much for that

    Hello Crackers,

    Thanks for confirming that the float is meant to move.


    Is the float being totally stuck something beyond a bit of detritus floating around in the system?

    If it is beyond a bit of gunk lodging in the wrong place then it is so much for the carburettor being "fully re-manufactured, bench tested and ran hot so that it does not need any adjustment". Is it RonP38 who has the thread about having the knack for buying defective products?

    What is the best way of freeing up the float so that it can indeed do what it is meant to as in move and float.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  8. #28
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    Your tiny pictures don't blow up very well but I think I can see a metal tab just above the needle and seat that is holding the float down. There should be a metal splash guard in there somewhere, I suspect its been installed incorrectly. You'll need to extract the tab with a pair of pliers and work out if it fits in there without jamming the float.

  9. #29
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    It could be some gunk so squirt it out with some sort of cleaner. It could also be a bent tab as bee utey suggests. Just have a close look and it'll become clear. I don't know those specific carbies but the floats are usually easy enough to get out - you need to be able to to change the needle and jet. Just don't drop anything is six inches of wood shavings under your bench

  10. #30
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    I think I worked it out

    Hello Crackers and BeeUty,

    I think I have worked it out. With a bit of help from the "Old Holdens Shed Site". What had happened is that the needle had come out of the seat and jammed itself between the pivot of the float chamber - where it hinges.

    Now remember this is a "fully re-manufactured" carburettor that requires no adjustment". Especially since it has been "bench tested and ran hot".

    All I have done with this carburettor was install it on the manifold and connected the pipes and cables on to it. I had not tinkered with the carburettor's internals at all.

    How often does the needle come out of the seat and block the float valve mechanism?

    Could someone please let me know which way should the rounded end of the needle fit back into the seat? Is the rounded end meant to have contact with the vertical elbow of the float. This means the pointy end of the needle goes towards the hole in the seat?

    Is there meant to be a spring in between the needle and seat? Or is it just moved sideways by the float moving up and down?

    Kind Regards
    Lionel
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