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Thread: Using Jumper Leads on d3 TDV6

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    My 2 cents worth, if I was using my D3, I'd first try to jump start another vehicle from mine, firstly without my car turned on. If your battery is in good condition and you have a decent set of jumper leads, you should be able to kick start another car no worries. If you are trying to do the reverse, let the other vehicle run, connected to yours for a while, this will bring the charge up in your battery, assuming your battery is flat from over use, not old age. Then turn off the other car and start yours, again this should help prevent any voltage spiking. Have done this many times on my D2, thankfully my D3 hasn't needed that help yet. Have jump started many vehicles with flat batteries, due to fridges, etc, with no worries. Good jumper leads and clamps is the key to easy jump starting.

    Good luck

    Andrew

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniegy View Post
    Hi Graeme,

    I am pretty sure it is, just cant remember where i saw the cable go to/from!

    I am also sure the D2 was earthed, there was an earth cable from the engine to the firewall behind the block. I know the D1 had a cable behind a body mount.

    You got me thinking now....
    The negative lead from the battery in each of my D2s went to the inner guard then to the engine, but no cable to the chassis anywhere. A D2 fitted with a winch and an earth cable going directly to the winch motor will earth the chassis due to the winch cradle being mounted to the chassis though.
    My 84 RRC has one to the chassis, as did my 82 RRC.

    I will look at the D4 when I get a chance but as nothing requires an earth from the chassis, I suspect it will be the same as the D2.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  3. #13
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    Hi guys if you open up your D3 owners manual and go to page 298 & 299 the procedure is explained here.
    Cheers Tinman

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tinman View Post
    Hi guys if you open up your D3 owners manual and go to page 298 & 299 the procedure is explained here.
    Cheers Tinman
    I was wondering how long it would be until someone told us to go and read the instructions......

  5. #15
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    I supposed I just spoiled the thread by offering an answer ha ha

  6. #16
    d3viate Guest
    Maybe slightly off track (deviation!) but if your jump-starting and it wasn't just leaving the lights on sort of thing, it is good practice (IMHO), to pull the battery post leads off, give the clamps a cleanup with a round file lightly or grit/sand paper, and the battery posts a light scratch-up/clean up, replace everything nice and tight,check the alternator,starter,earth wires are tight, and just have a look following the wires if you can to make sure all is ok .
    Keep your battery clean and clamped tight.
    Remember that good point made to connect the leads on the "jumper" first to keep the sparks down and you shouldn't have a fag in your mouth or hand hanging over the battery. It's a mini bomb there if it's lead acid type.
    I like to put my sunnies or clear safety glasses on if working on lead-acid batterys because they can go off and you only have one set of eyeballs.
    It only takes a few minutes to get a good connection and its one thing most people forget to maintain and is the most common problem when called out for a jump-start.
    There are products to cover your posts after the clean up help prevent the substance that builds up between the posts and clamps that you have now cleaned. Some put vaseline on them but this melts and with dirt build-up can cause "tracking".
    All helps getting the starter spinning to the max, your alternator pumping and lengthens your battery life.
    Sux breakin down .

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniegy View Post
    Hi Graeme,

    I am pretty sure it is, just cant remember where i saw the cable go to/from!
    Yep, on my D4 at least. There's a strap from the body below the air-box to the chassis on the strut tower.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  8. #18
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    I just used the leads direct from my D3 +ve & -ve to jump start a Mercedes delivery van. What a weird car that is, couldn't even see the battery in the engine bay, just a +ve lug to the fuse box and just a stud on the van body for the -ve!

  9. #19
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by RANDLOVER View Post
    I just used the leads direct from my D3 +ve & -ve to jump start a Mercedes delivery van. What a weird car that is, couldn't even see the battery in the engine bay, just a +ve lug to the fuse box and just a stud on the van body for the -ve!
    Most mercs have the battery in the boot.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    So does the D5, with + and - terminals under the bonnet only.

    Ron
    2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
    --------------------------------------------------------
    2018 D5 TD6 SE Silicon Silver - gone
    2011 D4 TDV6 2.7 Indus Silver - gone
    IIDTool BT

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