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Thread: Installing a false floor

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Kalgoorlie WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    And the D2 is also way higher.When i first got the D4,i had heaps of dramas fitting stuff in for long camping trips.Nothing would fit where it used to.

    After 3 yrs,i have at last got it all sorted

    And i haven't worried about pulling out the never used third row,probably a bit lazy and as there is only two of us(and the dog),we seem to have heaps of room as it is.
    I've been thinking that this is something that I'll probably discover in the next couple of days. The drawer set has a fridge slide on top of it, and I have a 40 litre Engel. Used to work well on the D2 - but I'm wondering how it will go in the D4, particularly with the overhead tailgate. I'm hoping that there will still be enough room to easily open the lid on the fridge.

    Was following the D2 down the road this morning - the young bloke has it booked in to upholsterers to get the roof lining fixed. It definitely is a much higher vehicle than my D4.

    He got a laugh at my expense on the way down there ............... yesterday I have been fitting the Traxide DBS kit and I haven't finished putting the car all back together. Pulled round a corner into the main drag, and then had to stop at red light - I hadn't done up the latch on the rear wheel carrier, so had other people blowing their horns at me at the lights to let me know that the spare wheel had swung out to the right side of the car. A quick barefoot sprint in Hannan Street had it fixed.
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by l00kin4 View Post
    OK. Good one Richard.

    Re carpet I'm no expert that's for sure. I actually left the underside of my base bare so that the ribbing of the decking that I used to increase the height provides a little extra lateral grip. Mine is only fixed by the tiedown bolts on one side and straps in the centre so not as well anchored as yours will be with 4 bolts through it.


    I used carpet from Bunnings fixed with liquid nails - seems to grab quite quickly and looks ok. The carpet is a surprisingly good match. Cutting the carpet at the corners is tricky though.







    The little hols I cut out are for the bolts to go through freely to the captive t-nuts on the under side. I like those as I think they provide a stronger fixing than screws and you don't need access to them as you would with a nut on the underside.

    I'll be interested to see photos of your project as it progresses.

    Cheers,
    David
    About to build a full width false floor like this, bolted the exisitng tie down points. Looks very good.
    One question about the "angle" of the floor/tailgate, before I start cutting etc.
    Is it necessary to add the extra 19mm layer (in this case decking) all around the false floor to gain the extra height needed to clear the tailgate, or could a single 19mm strip be added only to the edge nearest the tailgate to obtain an "angle" on the false floor. I've measured, and it seems possible that clearance would be achieved, but would the lack of support all around create flex in the false floor (19mm marine ply) ?

    Thanks

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    I built a shelving system out of 19mm marine ply and only lifted the tailgate end by the required amount to allow the fridge slide to work.
    I've had no problems - whether the ply flexes, or is strong enough to support the weight is debatable. My shelves are still intact, despite the odd unintended bump / thrown about ;-)

    Cheers

  4. #24
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    I just used a strip of 19mm along the front and it works fine.

  5. #25
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    Jan 2015
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimlr View Post
    About to build a full width false floor like this, bolted the exisitng tie down points. Looks very good.
    One question about the "angle" of the floor/tailgate, before I start cutting etc.
    Is it necessary to add the extra 19mm layer (in this case decking) all around the false floor to gain the extra height needed to clear the tailgate, or could a single 19mm strip be added only to the edge nearest the tailgate to obtain an "angle" on the false floor. I've measured, and it seems possible that clearance would be achieved, but would the lack of support all around create flex in the false floor (19mm marine ply) ?

    Thanks
    I think what you're proposing will be fine and flex won't be an issue. When I first did mine I had actually left an opening along the inside edge with the idea that I could fit a tarp or two underneath and then ended up just filling it in to give me more 'meat' to screw the cage through to.

    I did also wonder (never tested this theory and it is probably negligible) if it would be a little bit harder (for my 8 year old, not larger folk) to pull the fridge out on the slide with it sloping back into the car, especially fully loaded - not a consideration for everyone of course.

    Since you 've checked that it will clear fine I think just lifting the back edge will be an easier solution.
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    I built a platform for the fridge slide which I bolted to the false floor

    I have a small shelf on the other side where I store my jack etc as no longer have access to under floor area

    I am traveling at the moment and will take a pic if I can
    Richard

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbowner View Post
    I built a platform for the fridge slide which I bolted to the false floor

    I have a small shelf on the other side where I store my jack etc as no longer have access to under floor area

    I am traveling at the moment and will take a pic if I can
    Richard
    One of the things I wanted to be able to do with mine was to still be able to use that seat if possible and get to that area, including the winder for the spare wheel. By building mine to one side and anchored down in the middle to the seat base mounts - the seat is still useable and everything accessible.

    I even still have enough room beside the fridge to get to the jack and LR toolkit. Unfortunately I have tested this with having to change a wheel on the way back from Fraser. Only matters if you need it....

    David
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Hmm better shrink some photo's of our sliding tray that sits above the space created by removal of the third row seats and get them up here. Per previous posts we have 285kg slides both sides and the tray moves out past the rear of the car to allow access to the spare wheel winder. Allows us to not worry about a storage system as we tow an Ultimate which holds all our needs but the slide can carry a second fridge, space case and 3x JC if required and is mounted to the four tie down points already in place.With the seats out we have all the room we need for recovery gear, spares and tools including a compressor so perfect result for us

    Rob

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