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Thread: Rear Main Seal, Auto & Body off work.

  1. #1
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    Rear Main Seal, Auto & Body off work.

    So, the dealer has informed me that they suspect the source of a small oil leak to be the rear main seal. This requires a body off repair. There is also a fear of a secondary leak which can't be confirmed until the trans is removed to inspect the rear main. They want the vehicle for 5 days in case whatever the second feared leak is, if confirmed parts can be air freighted.
    I am not happy this repair has to be done to my vehicle @ 27K.
    I appreciate (whilst to most it would seem ridiculous) the body off is the design, but; I would like to get peoples thoughts on what else I could get done at this time taking advantage of the body off predicament and what I should reinforce to the dealer to ensure a proper job is done.

    I know I have to disconnect the Winch cables and inform them of unplugging the additional ARB clearance lights.


    I was also thinking of getting the ZF steel sump kit fitted to the trans.


    Any other pointers, ideas or advice?
    Cheers, Mungus.
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    MY14D4HSE, Nara Bronze, E-Diff, Vision Assist, Surround Cameras, LLAMS, ProSpeed Sliders/Compressor plate, Mitch Hitch,
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  2. #2
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    Low Ks for a MY2014, any warranty chance?
    Last edited by Nicky; 13th November 2016 at 02:20 PM. Reason: spelling
    2003 D2a Auto TD5 good Landy gone
    2015 D4 probably the most amazing yet, why get a RR?

  3. #3
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Apart from the actual issue and cost if it isn't covered by warranty, don't be too concerned about the body off bit - if you ever take a look in a dealers workshop you will always see a few Disco 4's and RRS's with their bodies off - the work shops do it every day, so nothing to be worried about there - they seem to whip the bodies off for all sorts of things - alternators, etc - makes working on the car a snap. I think it is a very good design, although if you were swinging the spanners yourself it does require the investment of a hoist (which isn't a bad thing)
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  4. #4
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    I thought mine had a rear main leak a couple of years ago. It was diagnosed by my indie and I posted here about it at some stage.


    I just let it go and I started to get a lot more oil on the bottom of the car and the ground. We then found that it wasn't the rear main, it was an ORing on the oil removal tube that is in the bottom of the sump next to the drain plug.


    They replaced the ORing a couple of times and tried to use bigger ORings, but it still leaked and after a 14,000km trip in May there was a lot of oil leaking. We then installed the bottom half of a new tube (body off to get the whole tube in so we didn't do that and the part costs around $450) only to find it was leaking even more.


    I took it straight back and after doing more diagnostics and cleaning up it became obvious that the oil was actually leaking out of the drain plug and running onto the suction tube so it appeared to be coming from the ORing. We found that the thread in the sump was stripped so the drain plug wouldn't hold oil. This was despite the only mechanics to work on the car since 2013 being Rovertech, who never undo the sump to drain the oil and instead use the suction tube.


    There is almost no clearance to the chassis behind the plug to work on this but the mechanic managed to fix it with a lot of ingenuity. No more engine leaks at all and I still haven't replaced the rear main after 230,000km.


    Based on this I suggest a very close look at your drain plug and oil suction tube before blaming the rear main. I think that removing the drain plug from the alloy sump when it hasn't been removed for a long time can easily rip out the thread, so if it is put back without properly fixing it you get what I did, with a serious mystery oil leak. Luckily the plug didn't come out!
    Bob

    2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
    2019 Discovery 5 SD6 SE, 20 inch wheels, 275/55R20 Nitto Grappler G2 tyres

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicky View Post
    Low Ks for a MY2014, any warranty chance?
    Yes Nicky, all covered under warranty. Still under standard 3yr, with 2yr extended as well.
    Cheers, Mungus.
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    MY14D4HSE, Nara Bronze, E-Diff, Vision Assist, Surround Cameras, LLAMS, ProSpeed Sliders/Compressor plate, Mitch Hitch,
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    ... I think it is a very good design, although if you were swinging the spanners yourself it does require the investment of a hoist (which isn't a bad thing)
    Homestar, I'm not worried, as long as they put it back together properly. No squeaks or rattles will be tolerated. Like you I think it is a very clever design. Fortunately I have a hoist should the need arise once out of warranty; but so glad on this occasion it will be done by LR Techs and covered by warranty.
    Cheers, Mungus.
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    MY14D4HSE, Nara Bronze, E-Diff, Vision Assist, Surround Cameras, LLAMS, ProSpeed Sliders/Compressor plate, Mitch Hitch,
    ARB Summit Bar, Runva 11XP, Traxide D3-DU, GOE Comp. Rims, D697 265/60R18, Rijidij RWC, Fyrlyts.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobD View Post
    I thought mine had a rear main leak a couple of years ago. It was diagnosed by my indie and I posted here about it at some stage.


    I just let it go and I started to get a lot more oil on the bottom of the car and the ground. We then found that it wasn't the rear main....

    No more engine leaks at all and I still haven't replaced the rear main after 230,000km.

    Thanks BobD, That's the sort of info I'm after. It is only a very small leak so I'm not going to rush into the suggested repair yet. going to put it up on the hoist again and investigate myself a little further. Hoping to see more with an inspection camera, if I can get into the bell housing somehow.
    Cheers, Mungus.
    _________________
    MY14D4HSE, Nara Bronze, E-Diff, Vision Assist, Surround Cameras, LLAMS, ProSpeed Sliders/Compressor plate, Mitch Hitch,
    ARB Summit Bar, Runva 11XP, Traxide D3-DU, GOE Comp. Rims, D697 265/60R18, Rijidij RWC, Fyrlyts.

  8. #8
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    I don't believe there is a steel pan option available for the 8 speed auto. I am having the fluid changed only on mine this week (75,000km).

    Chris

  9. #9
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    Really Chris? That sticky on A/T FAQ's is that long I forgot most of it is regarding the 6spd.
    Cheers, Mungus.
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    MY14D4HSE, Nara Bronze, E-Diff, Vision Assist, Surround Cameras, LLAMS, ProSpeed Sliders/Compressor plate, Mitch Hitch,
    ARB Summit Bar, Runva 11XP, Traxide D3-DU, GOE Comp. Rims, D697 265/60R18, Rijidij RWC, Fyrlyts.

  10. #10
    LRD414's Avatar
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    That's my understanding too. I've only read of fluid changes for 8 speeds.
    I'd be interested to hear about the fluid change and how it goes Chris as I'm contemplating the same at maybe 60,000.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
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