Reply With QuoteScottOriginally Posted by LRD414
I reckon I will need something like Tombie
on the door and on the slider
wb
Super Moderator
SubscriberI find that mud still gets up to the d-seal even with the bottom plate I have. A completely solid top plate step may help but the seal will still be of benefit I think, so worth persevering to find an option that works.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Master
SubscriberScott
I reckon I will need something like Tombie
on the door and on the slider
wb
Master
SubscriberI tried putting a bit on both the door like Scott and some on the APT sliders and the rubber at least touches. May be the best I can do.
i reckon some harder rubber tubing on the door would work better, not sure
i can't see if I have the same large gap all along the door.
I willdo the front one and see.
Will not look great though
WB
Super Moderator
SubscriberThe gap changes width on mine. There is a curve to the door trim and possibly the door itself. One end of the seal is close to squashed flat.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Master
SubscriberScott
Will put one strip on and see how it goes.
WB
Master
Subscriberhad another go today after buying some more rubber
I bought some like in pic 2
i stuck this to the door like Scott and some D tube rubber on the sliders. Seems to have closed the gap
Not pretty.
Bought new stuff from Clark Rubber so paid a lot.
I have only done one side.
The door closes OK but does need a firm push.
Will check in a few weeks to see how it goes and then may be do the other side.
WB
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