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Thread: Clean out your hole

  1. #11
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ean Austral View Post
    I clean the Y piece every 20,000ks . There are orings on the inlet manifold end which can be damaged.
    So is there a special order to it or technique to avoid o-ring damage?

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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  2. #12
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    So is there a special order to it or technique to avoid o-ring damage?

    Scott
    Not really, just be aware they are there. Without going and looking at the car, I think you get it out by moving it towards the passenger side first then just wiggle it side to side. They are a tight fit as they seal the intake manifold so you need a bit of force , just don't stick a screwdriver or something down the edge and try and wedge it out.

    Cheers Ean

  3. #13
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    Thanks for posting this. An easy DIY I was quite successful at. And yes, another dirty hole.

    cheers

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ean Austral View Post
    Not really, just be aware they are there. Without going and looking at the car, I think you get it out by moving it towards the passenger side first then just wiggle it side to side. They are a tight fit as they seal the intake manifold so you need a bit of force , just don't stick a screwdriver or something down the edge and try and wedge it out.

    Cheers Ean
    I used a rubber safe lubricant to help the o-rings slide back into position. Saying that, manual says to replace them if you disassemble, but I didn't.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
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  5. #15
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    Useful old thread here! I found my D4 3.0 2010 MAP sensor was pretty blocked and peering inside the Y piece, I can see a chunk of gunk through the hole.

    I’d like to remove the throttle body and Y piece for a manual clean. Can anyone elaborate on the steps to removing them or at least which components need to come out first?

    Also, has anyone dared to remove the intake manifolds and EGR valves?

  6. #16
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    Removing intake plenum and throttle body is quite easy.
    1. Remove engine cover
    2. Undo air hose from intercooler to intake plenum
    3. Undo bolt on underside of intake plenum (M10 spanner), don't drop the bolt unless you want to remove the bash plates and go hunting for it.
    4. Undo plenum clip to throttle body, it's easiest from the passenger side, reading underneath about 8 o'clock position. I used a pair of bent nose circlip pliers to unclip it. Unclip the wire to the sensor that's in the plenum, and unclip the bleed air hose next to it.
    5. Wiggle the main o ring clip and remove, don't overextend it.
    6. Pull the plenum towards the fan, wiggle it up, the bottom edge should come out first, then lift up out of the way
    7. Throttle body and butterfly is now exposed. Note the o ring around the throttle body
    8. Undo bolt holding throttle body to engine.
    9. Undo EGR valve pipes (the left and right stainless pipes that feed into the TB after the butterfly. You'll need to unclip the special flange clips, they are easy to undo, but harder to do back up. Gently bend the EGR pipes out of the way a little. I undid the two pipe clamps that hold these on about 2-3 turns to give the pipes a bit more flex.
    10. Unclip MAP wire
    11. Wiggle throttle body loose. I pushed mine slightly further into the passenger side intake manifold to clear the drivers side manifold then pull towards the front and it comes out of the passenger side manifold.
    12. Clean everything and reassemble in the reverse order.


    Discojeffster on this forum went further and replaced both manifolds, this requires new injector feed pipes and seating gaskets etc.

    Hope this helps.

    EricIMG-20190101-WA0002.jpg

  7. #17
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    Bloody awesome Eric! Thanks heaps. Going to wait for the heat to subside outside and give this a crack tomorrow. Will report back!

  8. #18
    geoffmc is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Hey Eric,

    Great job with your write up, so much so that i decided to do mine today. The job took almost 90 minutes, but i took my time and ensured that everything was done methodically. Its not a technically difficult job, however you need to have some mechanical aptitude and understanding of how things work.

    Mine has done 94k and wasn't as fouled up as Erik's pics, however was definitely worth doing.

    cheers
    Geoff
    D4 TDV6 MY13 White - GONE

  9. #19
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    Biggest problem I had was cleaning out as much of the manifolds as possible, access in there is not good, and dont want to damage or leave anything in there, plus doing up the EGR pipe clamps was a bit tricky.

    Including cleaning, it took me about the same time (90min)

  10. #20
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    I got as far as step 9 - those EGR pipe clips look tricky.

    It looks like you can pry the 'tooth' edge up with a flat head screwdriver. Is that how you guys did it?

    Any tips on re-attaching? I was thinking of using some vice grips with just enough force to hold the clips in place and then some long pliers to give enough leverage to pull the edge back over.

    IMG_0817.jpg

    Also, here are some photos of the butterfly clip which holds the plenum to the TB which may help others attempting this job. I was nervous pulling up on the clip, but as you can see the plastic is moulded so that the clip slides around when (gently) yanked.

    IMG_0810.jpg

    IMG_0811.jpg

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