Thread: LED trailers

Originally Posted by imaz

Why must the load resisters be on the indicators and not all lights such has stop, tail/parking lights?

Because it's the indicator circuits which are probed for resistance indicating the presence of a trailer or not.

Originally Posted by imaz

Why must the load resisters be on the indicators and not all lights such has stop, tail/parking lights?

Different vehicles need different things. The D3 (Also requires relays), D4 & I would assume RRS only check the indicator circuits, so no point in adding resistors to anything else.

If, for example, you had a BMW X6 you would need resistors and relays on both indicators, tail light and brake light circuits.

Originally Posted by imaz

Just add the resisters into the trailer plug at the drawer bar side/within the plug itself.

You reckon you will be able to wire them within a standard trailer plug?

Each load resistors is about 5cm long x 1.2cm square and lets not talk about the possible need to mount them on a heat sink because they will heat if you activate and leave your hazard lights on with a trailer attached.

hmm, so my local auto mech added something to my RRS instead of the trailer. should I get this changed over?

Originally Posted by Ferret

You reckon you will be able to wire them within a standard trailer plug?

Each load resistors is about 5cm long x 1.2cm square and lets not talk about the possible need to mount them on a heat sink because they will heat if you activate and leave your hazard lights on with a trailer attached.

This video used small resisters? But obviously she added more than we would need into the 7 flat.

LED trailer plug resistor wiring - YouTube

By the way, is there a minimum wattage resister which is sufficient to trick the D4? 25w would be hot to run if you can get by with a 10w resister instead? Might be simpler to add a incandescent turn indicators on the trailer(additional lights).

Originally Posted by Eevo

hmm, so my local auto mech added something to my RRS instead of the trailer. should I get this changed over?

Is it switchable? Or is the trailer symbol constantly on?

Originally Posted by imaz

By the way, is there a minimum wattage resister which is sufficient to trick the D4? 25w would be hot to run if you can get by with a 10w resister instead? Might be simpler to add a incandescent turn indicators on the trailer(additional lights).

It’s resistance that matters… ohms.
The watt rating is how much it can handle.
I use 50w normally.