D3 2008 TDV6 Shudder!!

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Originally Posted by BradC

You can also use a graduated container and measure the fluid out. Stop when you're ~1/2L from the volume you put in and then replace that volume in the sump. Once you've done it the first time you realise it's not actually scary and like flushing brake fluid it's really easy to see when the process is done as the colour changes in the return line.

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Buy doing the whole process with the gearbox filler out you do not have worry about measuring amounts as when the fluid runs out the right amount of fluid (or approx) is in the system. Now unless you have preheated the fluid going in, the temp will not be quite right so when finished I take the car for a short run to get gearbox temp up and when I get back I crack the filler plug and either add or take out oil as needed with the engine running in drive after moving the lever to command shift and going through the gears.

Garry

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Originally Posted by BradC

If it holds 10L and a sump drop is 4L then after one sump drop 60% of the old oil remains.
After the second, 36% of the old until you've done about 6 drain/fill cycles to get to about 5% of the old oil remaining.

So if you use the entire 20L drum for drain/fill cycles you'll have ~8% of the original fluid still in there (just under a litre).

A cooler line flush is SOP for loads of Auto boxes. As 101RRS says, it prevents dirty fluid returning to the sump (excepting internal leakage anyway) and pushes clean fluid through the valve body and TC.
On older transmissions it was standard practice to run the transmission through each selector position for 5 seconds to flush all the passages in the valve block, but I don't know if you can do that with the new boxes.

On the older boxes I fill the sump and idle the engine until the first bubbles appear in the return line. You can also use a graduated container and measure the fluid out. Stop when you're ~1/2L from the volume you put in and then replace that volume in the sump. Once you've done it the first time you realise it's not actually scary and like flushing brake fluid it's really easy to see when the process is done as the colour changes in the return line.

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Not 100% sure as i didnt measure it but i reckon about 6 ltrs comes out when you drop and remove the sump and let the box drain. Either way thats how i did it and was happy with the oil colour after the 2nd sump drop. I have done 3 oil and filter changes in the 165,000ks on the clock , and the first i did was at 70,000ks and the oil looked like it came out a can of coke. The last 2 have been a lot better , slightly darker than new oil but far better then the original change. As you say , flushing the cooler and the lines is the correct way to ensure you remove the old oil.

I do know that if you are doing a oil change in the gearbox yourself, make sure you turn off your car air con as the drain is around where the gearbox is and you think you have a leaking sump gasket when you first start the car up.

Cheers Ean

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Originally Posted by Ean Austral

I have done 3 oil and filter changes in the 165,000ks on the clock ,

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I am now doing a basic drain and change every second engine oil change - so for me every 20,000km. Once setup only takes about 30mins and only cost the same as an engine oil change - I get my LG 6 from Repco when they have their oil sales - so the 3.5 litres works out just under $100.

The only thing I am unhappy about is the filter arrangement in the steel sump. instead of being able to just change the filter you have to pull the sump back off with the associated issue of undoing and tightening of the front sump bolts. Why they did not design the system so the filter could be removed and replaced without having to remove the sump is a odd design decision.

I do not know what the ZF recommendation change time/distance is for the filter (I had heard 120,000km) but I have not done mine yet because of the hassle and because of the low kms I have done so far. The job will certainly take a lot longer than the 30mins it takes to do a basic fluid change. Frustration level trying to get the front bolts back in is high.

Garry

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Originally Posted by 101RRS

The only thing I am unhappy about is the filter arrangement in the steel sump. instead of being able to just change the filter you have to pull the sump back off with the associated issue of undoing and tightening of the front sump bolts. Why they did not design the system so the filter could be removed and replaced without having to remove the sump is a odd design decision.

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Has anyone looked an using an external filter on the cooler lines? I use Magnefine filters on the Auto and PS in other vehicles where the "filter" in the auto is usually little more than a rock-catcher.

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Originally Posted by BradC

Has anyone looked an using an external filter on the cooler lines? I use Magnefine filters on the Auto and PS in other vehicles where the "filter" in the auto is usually little more than a rock-catcher.

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You would need to make some kind of pickup or gut a standard filter and keep it in place.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

You would need to make some kind of pickup or gut a standard filter and keep it in place.

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I wasn't suggesting removing the existing filter, just that the majority of wear materials will go out though the cooler before being flushed back into the sump, so taking them out of the oil before then should prevent a proportion of them (or most of them) clogging the internal filter.

I don't have an auto in the D3 so I'm just spitballing ideas that I've used on other vehicles.

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Originally Posted by BradC

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On older transmissions it was standard practice to run the transmission through each selector position for 5 seconds to flush all the passages in the valve block, but I don't know if you can do that with the new boxes.e.

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Yes you can, when I did mine, we shifted through each gear, including reverse, park and neutral with the engine running, foot on the brake and car on stands. Hold in each gear for about 5-10 seconds, gets rid if all the air in the valve body and ensures correct fluid fill level when the indicated temp reaches 35deg C.

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Originally Posted by BradC

I wasn't suggesting removing the existing filter, just that the majority of wear materials will go out though the cooler before being flushed back into the sump, so taking them out of the oil before then should prevent a proportion of them (or most of them) clogging the internal filter.

I don't have an auto in the D3 so I'm just spitballing ideas that I've used on other vehicles.

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It would be quite easy to add an extra filter in the engine bay somewhere between the trans and cooler as the line just uses barbs for connection, area in front of main battery would be ideal if you dont have an aux. battery there.

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Originally Posted by BradC

Has anyone looked an using an external filter on the cooler lines? I use Magnefine filters on the Auto and PS in other vehicles where the "filter" in the auto is usually little more than a rock-catcher.

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Yep, I'm running a magnefine filter on mine.

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Originally Posted by jay_guess

Very strange response! I'm not shooting anyone - it seems that many on here have had good results with a mega flush etc - so for my replacing the TC as first cause of action is justifiably noted as "over the top"

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His comment was “or just”....

Some people do the band aid, others do the immediate repair.

One delays the inevitable the other fixes the problem.

When the clutch disintegrates you’ll be up for a full rebuild so depending on your plans for the vehicle and piece of mind it may lead you one direction or the other.