What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by scarry

Have you given it a good charge,overnight at least,with a charger while it is isolated from the other battery?

Unfortunately a “regen” apparently will not work on an AGM battery but maybe worth a go at last resort,if your charger has the setting.

My thoughts are the small amount of current the Traxide device draws doesn’t do the batteries any favours.I often have the device turned off,with a switch in the small earth wire,so can leave it turned off if I want to.

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It’s cactus. After a few hours of driving, I pulled up and removed the negative terminal for it. Put the meter on it and it’s sub 11v.

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

It’s cactus. After a few hours of driving, I pulled up and removed the negative terminal for it. Put the meter on it and it’s sub 11v.

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Not real good,I hope my SSB whatever it is ,100A,lasts longer mine is just 2 yrs old,seems OK ATM.

Fitted rear mudflaps today; I followed the recipe from Scott here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-r...ml#post2499890
except I left out the aluminium strip behind the inner guard because I want the bolts to pull through the flap or the guard liner, hopefully without ripping out the entire inner liner, if the flap gets caught while reversing into something.
Attachment 181668

Nice work Scott.
the LR branded flaps look good. Well done.
who did you buy them from please?
thank you and best wishes.
Jeffoir.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Changed fuel filter. Car in normal height because couldn’t be bothered raising it with my dodgy compressor and just lay on ground under car in carport. Still surprisingly good access and easy job with only a 10mm socket needed for belly pan and heat cover (>MY07). 30 minutes done and dusted. Nothing spilt. One of the best DIY jobs for common rail problem avoidance.

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Good to know. The workshop manual has a procedure post-filter install called 'low-pressure fuel system bleeding' that requires a special tool on to the fuel line to bleed the air... Is that important? The manual has a warning about injection pump damage. Or do I just run the ignition on/off a few times? Thanks.

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Originally Posted by ScottLS

Good to know. The workshop manual has a procedure post-filter install called 'low-pressure fuel system bleeding' that requires a special tool on to the fuel line to bleed the air... Is that important? The manual has a warning about injection pump damage. Or do I just run the ignition on/off a few times? Thanks.

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Cycle the ignition a few times is all it needs. I’ve never heard it even stutter after a fuel filter change.

I'm off SSB to be honest, they look good on paper.. But not under your bonnet. The hvt range has no deep cycle ability at all.. Useless. Mine are on logs and rarely go under 12v.

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

I'm off SSB to be honest, they look good on paper.. But not under your bonnet. The hvt range has no deep cycle ability at all.. Useless. Mine are on logs and rarely go under 12v.

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Yeah. I’m pretty disappointed. Not sure what I’d get in place of my 50 though. I’d have expected more than 30 odd months from one before it dropped a cell (presumably).

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Originally Posted by Jeffoir

Nice work Scott.
the LR branded flaps look good. Well done.
who did you buy them from please?
thank you and best wishes.
Jeffoir.

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Thanks Jeffoir :) Rimmer Bros. Defender parts LHS CAT500450PMA, RHS LR055332. British Pound 34.39 + 33.82 + GST. And then about the same again for shipping.

Did an oil change + new front pads & wear sensor. Nice even wear on both sets of pads but one of the pistons was a bit sticky going back in. Fluid is looking a bit second hand, but that's due for a flush next service anyway.