What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Following this video I have just repaired it successfully! Amazing!!

I could not bear the continuously flashing PB light.

The right tools certainly make the job possible but once I had it unjammed and turning first using a long crow bar I could hammer from below the exhaust I could then literally spin it using a small screwdriver to flick it down. It would rotate a full turn at least each flick.

Once fully retracted it just clicks back together to the other side. I then removed the wheels and cleaned and adjusted the park brake shoes per BBB.

Then I did what the dash display instructed to lift the PB lever and miracle of miracles it did a little dance and then applied the PB and all the flashing and errors cleared.

About 2.5 hours due to how easy it was to spin it and with the park brake adjusted and cover re-siliconed and back on.

I’m tempted to think that once it is freely turning lifting the PB lever as per the dash instruction would do the job of reconnecting it for you.

Definitely must have been a few of these units chucked in the bin when all they needed was unjamming manually.

I REPAIR EPB MODULE on a Land Rover Discovery 3 / LR3 / RRS for 0$ - YouTube

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Originally Posted by BradC

I’d cut and shut the cable. 2 power wires and 2 for USB-C PD negotiation. A bit of white heat shrink over the top and it’d look ok. Alternatively, put a floating lighter socket under the center console with the adapter in it and shove most of the cable out of sight. I did that with my CarPlay cable. 90% of it is behind the console next to the steering wheel and just a tail and plug poking out.

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Hmm. Interesting. A few more than I expected here.

Attachment 186726

That is interesting. 7 Wires plus shield. I wonder which is what? I suspect they've used an off the shelf lead with moulded plug.

Attachment 186727

The only necessary pins for charging are GND / VBUS / CC[12]. Because the connector is symmetrical there are 2 pins, but it's only one signal (a bit like LIN).

The CC pin is used to perform PD (Power Delivery) negotiation.

This is where you need a USB-C socket to probe so you can see which wire is which.

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Originally Posted by The Fridster

I'm interested in what changes to the shift pattern you have found since Cambo did his thing. I've got a RRS SDV8 which has plenty of grunt but I would like the Trans shift pattern to be a bit better when towing my 2.6 T van. I'd appreciate your input Discodicky.

Thanks in advance

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Several changes. It "holds" each gear on the upchange slightly longer by roughly 3-400 rpm.
As I understand, and if I was listening correctly, Cameron wanted to keep the rpm slightly higher as one of "the theories" of 3.0 litre crankshaft breakage is too much torque at too low rpm.

The trans changes slicker and before the change it sometimes couldn't decide if it wanted to be in 2nd or 3rd under certain circumstances, such as very light throttle application and going around an uphill corner at same time. It now knows, and is more 'definitive' with all shifts.

Downshifts are almost imperceptible now, as are upshifts depending on how much loud pedal you are using.

Kickdown is crisper.

He mentioned a slight change to the Torque Convertor lockup as well, I think.

His "mod" is based on late model XJ Jaguar I think he said.
I must confess I was only partly listening as I was too busy drooling over his XKR Jaguar...

Would be worth calling him to discuss.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

Several changes. It "holds" each gear on the upchange slightly longer by roughly 3-400 rpm.
As I understand, and if I was listening correctly, Cameron wanted to keep the rpm slightly higher as one of "the theories" of 3.0 litre crankshaft breakage is too much torque at too low rpm.

The trans changes slicker and before the change it sometimes couldn't decide if it wanted to be in 2nd or 3rd under certain circumstances, such as very light throttle application and going around an uphill corner at same time. It now knows, and is more 'definitive' with all shifts.

Downshifts are almost imperceptible now, as are upshifts depending on how much loud pedal you are using.

Kickdown is crisper.

He mentioned a slight change to the Torque Convertor lockup as well, I think.

His "mod" is based on late model XJ Jaguar I think he said.
I must confess I was only partly listening as I was too busy drooling over his XKR Jaguar...

Would be worth calling him to discuss.

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I too was drooling while he was doing his magic. I recall him saying that JLR actually did some more work on the transmission after it was introduced, and it was the results of that work that he incorporates into his mods.

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

I too was drooling while he was doing his magic. I recall him saying that JLR actually did some more work on the transmission after it was introduced, and it was the results of that work that he incorporates into his mods.

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Yes you are quite correct.
Re-reading my post I mentioned increased revs of 3-400 but I think a smidgen less than that.
It will still upchange at low revs if you are driving it that way and 80 kph at 11-1200 rpm is still quite possible.
I notice that it will sit at 70kph in 6th at about 1200rpm which I "think" from memory it would have been in 7th before????

To sum it up I guess one of the main benefits is more precise shifting both up and down and holding a gear slightly longer before shifting up.

Cameron is the man to talk to....

Further to my recent post regarding my mainland trip, I have just got the results of my engine oil analysis after changing the oil/filter last week upon return. They are quite interesting and worth sharing with you.

Just a mention that I've worked out that on roughly a dozen occasions and only whilst climbing very steep hills (eg, Cunningham's Gap in 26 deg temp, and also up to Mt. Morgan from Rockhampton) the coolant fans came on at 106 deg coolant temp. As I don't have a GAP tool I have no idea what the oil temp got to, but I reckon it was "hot" on many occasions, and this is reflected to some extent in the analysis results.

As well, I often worked the engine quite hard with long pulls up twisting climbs with GCM of around 5.8 tonnes.

I don't know how to copy and paste the original so you'll have to put up with my home made Excell "spread sheet".

Klms on oil: 12190 6797 7616 7265 7579 (Total klms 197xxx) The last 3 changes on HPR5 5W40, the two prior on Penrite E/Plus C1 5W30

PQ Index 11 10 11 10 11

Results below in ppm (parts per million)

Fe 46 28 20 20 18
Cr 2 1 1 1 1
Cu 6 5 4 4 4
Sn less than 1
Pb less than 1
Al 11 7 8 9 10
Si 13 22 7 5 4
Na 4 1 2 1 2
K 15 1 2 7 4

Oil Condition:
Nitration: 11 10 10 9 9
Oxidation: 12 10 11 16 15
Sulphation: 19 17 17 19 19
Soot: 19 13 12 15 11

Viscosity @ 100Deg Cent:
12 12.4 11.5 9.6 9.6

Water: less than 0.01%

Note:
Silicon at 22 ppm I was not bothered as that aligned with doing the oil cooler/inlet manifolds hence some "dirt" gets in the engine no matter how clean you work.
With Iron (Fe) and Chromium (Cr) rising would explain the higher engine temps on many occasions I think.
High soot can explain my foot being down and working it hard.
% fuel is ok so not an injector dribbling or over fueling problem.

Happy to read any constructive comments, but to me it is a good case of frequent oil changes being the go, and I'll get back to circa 7000 klm changes now I am back in God's country.... Tassy.!![biggrin]

PS: FYI I use Wynns engine oil additive.

Started cleaning out half of the Simpson Desert from the D4 after our trip.
Will give it a good clean and it will be replaced by the new L663 at the end of the week, so saying a fond farewell as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

Further to my recent post regarding my mainland trip, I have just got the results of my engine oil analysis after changing the oil/filter last week upon return. They are quite interesting and worth sharing with you.

Happy to read any constructive comments, but to me it is a good case of frequent oil changes being the go, and I'll get back to circa 7000 klm changes now I am back in God's country.... Tassy.!![biggrin]

PS: FYI I use Wynns engine oil additive.

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Do you still use your i-drive throttle controller? I found mine to be superfluous once remapped.

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Do you still use your i-drive throttle controller? I found mine to be superfluous once remapped.

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Yes, completely superfluous as you say.
I sold it.
Due to the fact that I am an illiterate computer git I don't know how to remove it from my page.... or add a photo... or add an attachment....
[bigsad][bigsad][bigwhistle]