Hmm. Interesting. A few more than I expected here.
Magsafe cable.jpg
Following this video I have just repaired it successfully! Amazing!!
I could not bear the continuously flashing PB light.
The right tools certainly make the job possible but once I had it unjammed and turning first using a long crow bar I could hammer from below the exhaust I could then literally spin it using a small screwdriver to flick it down. It would rotate a full turn at least each flick.
Once fully retracted it just clicks back together to the other side. I then removed the wheels and cleaned and adjusted the park brake shoes per BBB.
Then I did what the dash display instructed to lift the PB lever and miracle of miracles it did a little dance and then applied the PB and all the flashing and errors cleared.
About 2.5 hours due to how easy it was to spin it and with the park brake adjusted and cover re-siliconed and back on.
I’m tempted to think that once it is freely turning lifting the PB lever as per the dash instruction would do the job of reconnecting it for you.
Definitely must have been a few of these units chucked in the bin when all they needed was unjamming manually.
I REPAIR EPB MODULE on a Land Rover Discovery 3 / LR3 / RRS for 0$ - YouTube
Hmm. Interesting. A few more than I expected here.
Magsafe cable.jpg
Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders
That is interesting. 7 Wires plus shield. I wonder which is what? I suspect they've used an off the shelf lead with moulded plug.
Fig1m11292018.jpg
The only necessary pins for charging are GND / VBUS / CC[12]. Because the connector is symmetrical there are 2 pins, but it's only one signal (a bit like LIN).
The CC pin is used to perform PD (Power Delivery) negotiation.
This is where you need a USB-C socket to probe so you can see which wire is which.
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
Several changes. It "holds" each gear on the upchange slightly longer by roughly 3-400 rpm.
As I understand, and if I was listening correctly, Cameron wanted to keep the rpm slightly higher as one of "the theories" of 3.0 litre crankshaft breakage is too much torque at too low rpm.
The trans changes slicker and before the change it sometimes couldn't decide if it wanted to be in 2nd or 3rd under certain circumstances, such as very light throttle application and going around an uphill corner at same time. It now knows, and is more 'definitive' with all shifts.
Downshifts are almost imperceptible now, as are upshifts depending on how much loud pedal you are using.
Kickdown is crisper.
He mentioned a slight change to the Torque Convertor lockup as well, I think.
His "mod" is based on late model XJ Jaguar I think he said.
I must confess I was only partly listening as I was too busy drooling over his XKR Jaguar...
Would be worth calling him to discuss.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Yes you are quite correct.
Re-reading my post I mentioned increased revs of 3-400 but I think a smidgen less than that.
It will still upchange at low revs if you are driving it that way and 80 kph at 11-1200 rpm is still quite possible.
I notice that it will sit at 70kph in 6th at about 1200rpm which I "think" from memory it would have been in 7th before????
To sum it up I guess one of the main benefits is more precise shifting both up and down and holding a gear slightly longer before shifting up.
Cameron is the man to talk to....
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
Further to my recent post regarding my mainland trip, I have just got the results of my engine oil analysis after changing the oil/filter last week upon return. They are quite interesting and worth sharing with you.
Just a mention that I've worked out that on roughly a dozen occasions and only whilst climbing very steep hills (eg, Cunningham's Gap in 26 deg temp, and also up to Mt. Morgan from Rockhampton) the coolant fans came on at 106 deg coolant temp. As I don't have a GAP tool I have no idea what the oil temp got to, but I reckon it was "hot" on many occasions, and this is reflected to some extent in the analysis results.
As well, I often worked the engine quite hard with long pulls up twisting climbs with GCM of around 5.8 tonnes.
I don't know how to copy and paste the original so you'll have to put up with my home made Excell "spread sheet".
Klms on oil: 12190 6797 7616 7265 7579 (Total klms 197xxx) The last 3 changes on HPR5 5W40, the two prior on Penrite E/Plus C1 5W30
PQ Index 11 10 11 10 11
Results below in ppm (parts per million)
Fe 46 28 20 20 18
Cr 2 1 1 1 1
Cu 6 5 4 4 4
Sn less than 1
Pb less than 1
Al 11 7 8 9 10
Si 13 22 7 5 4
Na 4 1 2 1 2
K 15 1 2 7 4
Oil Condition:
Nitration: 11 10 10 9 9
Oxidation: 12 10 11 16 15
Sulphation: 19 17 17 19 19
Soot: 19 13 12 15 11
Viscosity @ 100Deg Cent:
12 12.4 11.5 9.6 9.6
Water: less than 0.01%
Note:
Silicon at 22 ppm I was not bothered as that aligned with doing the oil cooler/inlet manifolds hence some "dirt" gets in the engine no matter how clean you work.
With Iron (Fe) and Chromium (Cr) rising would explain the higher engine temps on many occasions I think.
High soot can explain my foot being down and working it hard.
% fuel is ok so not an injector dribbling or over fueling problem.
Happy to read any constructive comments, but to me it is a good case of frequent oil changes being the go, and I'll get back to circa 7000 klm changes now I am back in God's country.... Tassy.!!
PS: FYI I use Wynns engine oil additive.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
Started cleaning out half of the Simpson Desert from the D4 after our trip.
Will give it a good clean and it will be replaced by the new L663 at the end of the week, so saying a fond farewell as well.
_________________________
1996 D1 V8 - gone
2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
2023 Defender 110SE D300
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
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