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[QUOTE=Tombie;3252865]Threw the van on the back and headed off to Mundi Mundi Bash last week.
Another Faultless trip
How was the Bash Tombie? On my bucket list to get there next year. Music lineup always looks pretty good. How do they handle the logistics of that many people in the middle of woop woop. I assume everyone shows up fully self sufficient (water/grey water/gas/toilet etc)?
Cheers
Goldey
[QUOTE=goldey;3252967]It was brilliant. Logistically they do a very good job of making things run smoothly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Highly recommend getting an entry pass for as early as possible (3 day early, 2 day early etc) it gets you closer to the front of the camping area.
Self sufficiency is the thing, but not to the extreme.
There's plenty of food vendors if you want to go that way (we did 20% purchase, 80% cooked at camp)
You'll need water, there's no showers. Grey water can be discharged to ground - every camp made a small pit/hole to soak it in.
Toilets are kept so clean it's mind blowing!
Atmosphere is great, very friendly and casual.
****ing ****ing **** ****.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
So the alternators on the 2.7 TDV6 for the D3 and RRS are different. This one is for an RRS and equivs to a DAN 988. I have the DAN 987 which has a different connector. ****! Don't buy one of these for a D3.
****ing ****ing **** ****.
Hmmm. What are you trying to say, Brad? [bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Hopefully, ready this coming week. Just over one month from drop off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Saitch
Had to take a small piece of gravel out from between the disc and backing plate on the right hand rear. Far better than it being a wheel bearing![smilebigeye]
Ok, so along with the different connector the alternator body is clocked differently to the outlet stud.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
https://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/...t/IMG_3298.jpg
The brush set and regulator is the same. As is the mounting assembly for the back cover. I thought I'll just swap the reg and cover over, how hard can it be?
The regulator is crimped and then spot welded to a copper lug on the diode pack. I cut the new regulator off at the regulator end leaving the stud and crimped tag. I managed to peel the old regulator off the lug mostly, then cut the remainder of the lug out. This allowed me to swap the reg over and crimp the old connector around the lug/crimp on the new alternator. I then used liberal amounts of flux and solder to solder the thing together over the crimp. I really, really hope that holds.
https://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/...t/IMG_3299.jpg
https://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/...t/IMG_3300.jpg
Then I went to re-fit the alternator to find the positive cable is clocked and held in place with tabs. This would not suit the modified outlet stud position, so out it came and the bush modified with the dremel to allow me to rotate the positive cable to a position where it allowed the alternator to bolt up and didn't have bending strain on it. Excuse the shadow on the picture.
https://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/...t/IMG_3301.jpg
Back in place and all working.
What an arsehole of a job.
Edit: And to top it off, took it for a test drive and the whine is still there. The alternator was crunchy when rotated by hand, so it was on its last legs, but I can't figure out what other bearing up front has gone noisy. I hope it's the A/C pulley as that's the next easiest/cheapest to do. Time to get the proper mechanics stethoscope out I suppose.
Was there anything on the box that indicated for which vehicle it was suitable that the seller should have made known?Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Good that you managed to eventually get it to fit.
No, probably my fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
The description was "Denso Alternator For 12V 150A Range Rover 2.7L V6 Diesel 2005-09". Pretty obvious. My bad for assuming the same motor in the same make car would have the same alternator I suppose. I blame coming home rolling drunk at midnight and purchasing on impulse.
Edit : Further research says the alternators for the RRS and the D3 *are* the same *provided* the RRS does not have ACE. This alternator would appear to be for the ACE version. It didn't help that the web site doesn't list a useful part number to check cross references.
Anyway it works and I got a good look at the guts. Now to figure out how to get the pulley off the old one and tear it down to see what was failing.
IIRC there is an inside hex for either the shaft or the pulley and that a spanner can be used on the other piece. My son fitted a 220A 4.4TDV8 alternator to the 3.0 D4 and had to replace the 4.4 pulley due to one being fixed and the other free-wheeling. The bracket on the engine had to be excavated a little too.