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Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

  1. #1221
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne, AU
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    Changed the diff oil.
    Old stuff was cloudy and dark.
    Once the under covers were off I could see oil leak evidence - tried to get a photos.

    First one is where it drips off the engine but I don't think is the source. Second is higher up and looks like the bottom of a turbo.
    And an enlargement of the area.

    Any suggestions?
    I've done a search and found references to turbo drain gaskets.
    oil leak 1.jpgoil leak 2.jpgScreen Shot 2020-10-03 at 6.34.40 pm.jpg
    _________________________
    1996 D1 V8 - gone
    2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
    2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
    2023 Defender 110SE D300

  2. #1222
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    Jun 2018
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    Finally got around to finishing the Traxide install in my D3 that has been sitting half done for the last few months. A bit baffled by the incab module. Can anyone tell me if that thing is meant to be switched up or down? I don't really get the ignition mode vs shared mode thing practically

  3. #1223
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parso View Post
    Finally got around to finishing the Traxide install in my D3 that has been sitting half done for the last few months. A bit baffled by the incab module. Can anyone tell me if that thing is meant to be switched up or down? I don't really get the ignition mode vs shared mode thing practically
    Well... I've had my Traxide installed for two years and have read the instructions many, many times and I still haven't quite figured it out, so good luck.
    I once tried to lay out a Traxide switch decision matrix on a spreadsheet, but stopped when my head hurt!
    As I understand it:
    1. Keep the batteries in Shared Mode. That is, the switch away from the LED. This is a set and forget mode and you only need to change it
    IF
    2. You have a flat cranking battery. Then switch it to Ignition Mode (towards the LED) until the cranking battery is fully charged. Then switch back to Shared Mode
    OR
    3. You are about to do some winching, then you switch it to Ignition Mode BUT you must move the switch slowly in the following order:
    With the switch in Shared Mode, switch it to Ignition, then back to Shared, then back to Ignition.

    Geddit? There's two separate modes when the switch is in the Ignition Mode setting. One is Ignition Mode, the other is Winch Mode. How the LED flashes indicates which mode you're in and what the system is doing, but buggered if I can learn it.

    After winching, return the switch to Shared Mode. It will time itself out and go back to Shared Mode by itself eventually.

    Look, it is a clever system and there's a lot more to it. My magnus opus, should I live so long, will be a definitive, clearly understandable explanation of the Traxide switching options. But not now. My head is hurting again...
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  4. #1224
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    I think it is about time I made a video, to show how all the setting work.

    This would probably make it easier for each owner to setup the way that best suits their individual needs.

  5. #1225
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    I think it is about time I made a video, to show how all the setting work.

    This would probably make it easier for each owner to setup the way that best suits their individual needs.
    Maybe a cheat sheet on A5 sized download so we could laminate it and leave it in the glovebox?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  6. #1226
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Perth
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    Yes I find the terminology to be confusing plus find it near impossible to distinguish between the different LED flashing modes in bright sunlight. Fading in and out just looks the same as blinking on and off and there are a number of these confusing LED sequences to indicate different states. I could never tell reliably whether the unit had isolated or what without getting the multimeter out.

    I moved away from a Traxide 160USI unit I had fitted to another brand earlier this year after being a bit unhappy about it all. Don't want to start a war, the service from Traxide is second to none.

    InterVolt VSR - 500A peak, 150A continuous, fully solid state (no mechanical relays), all functions (upper and lower voltage thresholds, time delays, alarm conditions etc.) fully programmable plus has a positive indicator of battery isolation and can support an in cab module to indicate isolation status and to jump start the main battery when needed.
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    2024 RRS on the road
    2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  7. #1227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parso View Post
    I don't really get the ignition mode vs shared mode thing practically
    As I understand it, the difference between the 2 modes is one of lower voltage threshold, ie the voltage the battery must drop to before the unit isolates both batteries from each other.

    When in 'ignition mode' as far as I can work out the lower voltage threshold is set to 12.7 volts. So when you turn the engine off the battery voltage drops to <12.7 volts fairly quickly and so the unit isolates the 2 batteries at ignition off. This is the way most other VSRs work.

    When in 'shared mode' as far as I can work out the lower voltage threshold is set to 12.2 volts. So when you turn the engine off the unit keeps both batteries joined until the combined battery voltage drops < 12.2 volts at which point the unit isolates the 2 batteries. The cranking battery remains at 12.2v for starting purposes but the aux battery is free to continue to power any devices attached to it. This way the available capacity of the aux and cranking battery can be maximised to power aux devices.

    The upper voltage threshold is the same in both cases, 13.2 volts I think, ie when the voltage at the cranking battery rises >13.2V (ie the engine is started) the unit joins the two batteries together so both charge.

    So you can choose which way you want your unit to run. Isolate at ignition off (ignition mode) or isolate hours later (shared mode) after some capacity from the cranking battery has been utilised to power your aux devices.
    2024 RRS on the road
    2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  8. #1228
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    I think it is about time I made a video, to show how all the setting work.

    This would probably make it easier for each owner to setup the way that best suits their individual needs.


    Tim, as with others, I salute your dedication (particularly to this site) and expertise.

    Can I suggest you find the dumbest person you can (apart from me) and get them to understand and explain at least the simplest parts of the system?

    I relate to DieselLSEs comments, and Ferrets simplistic (in the nicest sense) explanation makes some sense, but many like me just switch off the brain as soon as electrickery conversations start ie we just don't get it.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #1229
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    Jan 1970
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    Hi Gavin, and I have been working on a video to explain what the different functions are, how to set them up and what they achieve when selected.

    I am trying to do this with an animated video, to help make it easier for people to understand what they get when they install one of my systems.


    I have been working on the video and some new products but I am flat out with orders as well, so it is taking time.


    But the suggestions here are being taken onboard.


    Thank you all.

  10. #1230
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwb View Post
    Changed the diff oil.
    Old stuff was cloudy and dark.
    Once the under covers were off I could see oil leak evidence - tried to get a photos.

    First one is where it drips off the engine but I don't think is the source. Second is higher up and looks like the bottom of a turbo.
    And an enlargement of the area.

    Any suggestions?
    I've done a search and found references to turbo drain gaskets.
    oil leak 1.jpgoil leak 2.jpgScreen Shot 2020-10-03 at 6.34.40 pm.jpg
    Yep, drain pipe from turbo is leaking. Gasket is about 4 bucks. Like anything on these cars, absolute pita to change. If you've still got the original "long" drain pipe fitted, take the opportunityto fit the "shortened" one, this let's oil back into the sump higher up, prevents oil backpressure at the turbo, which forces oil into the intercooler.

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