Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by shack

It's not the water pump, there is a low coolant sensor in the header tank, they fail.

When I realised they had them, I checked it all out and most are disabled from factory, so I turned ours on, it worked well until I replaced the tank, then constant warnings...

I messed around with it but it still kept faulting so I turned it off in the CCF again.

Cheers
James

I heard of this also, but never knew you can disable them electronically. On a side note, can you disable the “oil level monitoring fault” notifications??

I’d only replace the water pump being it’s age, I’ve known two other mates who water pump failed circa make 2011-12 when their low coolant level notification played up.

Originally Posted by imaz

I heard of this also, but never knew you can disable them electronically. On a side note, can you disable the “oil level monitoring fault” notifications??

I’d only replace the water pump being it’s age, I’ve known two other mates who water pump failed circa make 2011-12 when their low coolant level notification played up.

I'd say the coolant level dropped because of the water pump failure... Hence the warning, if it continued to stay on after, I'd say drying out finished it off.

Originally Posted by HarryO

Enjoy making stuff so decided to make my own Roof Rack Ladder - all up the material cost me about $ 85.00.

Awesome, care to share some details? May have a go myself at that. Better than spending 650bucks....

Front Wheel bearings today, rears tomorrow or Sunday. Old hubs came out easy, original timken, 219000km.20211230_160831.jpg20211230_160827.jpg
20211230_160822.jpg

New hub nut done to 230nm, mount bolts to 115nm.

Everything got a good clean out, bit of corrosion in the hub bore and especially in the abs sensor housings.

Oh and caliper mount bolts to 275Nm make sure the threads are clean.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Front Wheel bearings today, rears tomorrow or Sunday.

My RRS has now 202,000 on the original wheel bearings and no issue at the moment but I guess the need to change will come soon.

I did put up a post a while back asking whether the rear wheel bearings are basically the same as the front in that the entire bearing housing with bearing installed is changed rather than just the bearing - got no response.

From your post, I take it that you just change out the entire rear bearing housing rather than just the bearing? Is that correct?

What sort of price are we looking at for all four corners with Timkin bearings - any other consumables needed?

Thanks

Garry

Originally Posted by 101RRS

My RRS has now 202,000 on the original wheel bearings and no issue at the moment but I guess the need to change will come soon.

I did put up a post a while back asking whether the rear wheel bearings are basically the same as the front in that the entire bearing housing with bearing installed is changed rather than just the bearing - got no response.

From your post, I take it that you just change out the entire rear bearing housing rather than just the bearing? Is that correct?

What sort of price are we looking at for all four corners with Timkin bearings - any other consumables needed?

Thanks

Garry

The whole carrier needs to be removed to press the bearing out unless you have the tools to do it in situ, i think the rears are NTN not Timken.

Correct, the rears are a different set up to the front. Rears are a pressed in roller bearing. Need to take out the entire hub assembly. Wish it was same as the front, easy replacement in 20min a side.

I bought from AF in the UK, was around 900 AUD including freight. Took 5 days to get here and that was just before Christmas.

I bought timken.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Awesome, care to share some details? May have a go myself at that. Better than spending 650bucks....

Sorry Eric - no plans on paper just made it as I went along. If you PM me your email I can send you pictures if that will help..