Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Got my key fob back from the UK after having it repaired, new case, micro switches and battery. Approx $50 all up including shipping. Bargain!

The D3 is getting new rear upper and lower arms plus new hub bushes next week. Well overdue as they are all original and it is at 311k

Transmission flush and filter is next job.

Originally Posted by BMKal

My young bloke had a set of 22 inch alloys from his RX7 reconditioned by Alloy Magic in Wangara a while back. He was happy with the service and results.

Went and saw them today. Really nice setup and they are pretty serious about how they go about it. Had a chat and the "thumb suck" with the Disco wheels is $200 per wheel to straighten them, but the heat required totally cooks the paint so another $275 to re-paint it. Since all I know at this point is I've done at least 2, it might well be a non-starter at the moment.

Looks like I'm up for replacement wheels, and 4 new AT tyres to match the new Pirelli I had fitted to the spare in Denham for a matching set. I'll have to live with the additional road noise.

Without the van on the back, I've noticed considerable torque steer under heavy acceleration (the spare that went on the left front is about 2% larger than the remainder).

In the mean time, I suppose I'm driving the Volvo.

Be more careful next time Brad!

Originally Posted by BradC

Went and saw them today. Really nice setup and they are pretty serious about how they go about it. Had a chat and the "thumb suck" with the Disco wheels is $200 per wheel to straighten them, but the heat required totally cooks the paint so another $275 to re-paint it. Since all I know at this point is I've done at least 2, it might well be a non-starter at the moment.

Looks like I'm up for replacement wheels, and 4 new AT tyres to match the new Pirelli I had fitted to the spare in Denham for a matching set. I'll have to live with the additional road noise.

Without the van on the back, I've noticed considerable torque steer under heavy acceleration (the spare that went on the left front is about 2% larger than the remainder).

In the mean time, I suppose I'm driving the Volvo.

Be more careful next time Brad!

Fortunately I've still got factory 18's on my D4 and have never damaged any of them. If I do ever damage any and have to spend money, I think I would use that as an excuse to buy me a set of the Tuffant Kimberley Alloys. Best looking after market wheels I've seen yet for the D4. I was hoping the "Fuel Vector" rims for the Amarok might fit. Stud pattern is the same - but the hole in the middle is unfortunately not big enough to fit on the Discovery hub.

IMGA0992.jpg IMGA0993.jpg IMGA0996.jpg

They do kook nice though.

Originally Posted by BMKal

Fortunately I've still got factory 18's on my D4 and have never damaged any of them. If I do ever damage any and have to spend money, I think I would use that as an excuse to buy me a set of the Tuffant Kimberley Alloys. Best looking after market wheels I've seen yet for the D4. I was hoping the "Fuel Vector" rims for the Amarok might fit. Stud pattern is the same - but the hole in the middle is unfortunately not big enough to fit on the Discovery hub.

IMGA0992.jpg IMGA0993.jpg IMGA0996.jpg

They do kook nice though.

Nothing some lathe work wouldn’t solve lol

Well finally my back tailgate door just stopped working not even a murmur of action or movement completely dead. Have tried every combination of key fob and internal lock switches.

Does that mean most likely the switch is kaput vs the latch mechanism? Latch has been replaced previously but at that time it became intermittent. Can I try cleaning the switch? Any diagnosis tips appreciated.

Luckily I put in an emergency release some time ago for this day.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Well finally my back tailgate door just stopped working not even a murmur of action or movement completely dead. Have tried every combination of key fob and internal lock switches.

Does that mean most likely the switch is kaput vs the latch mechanism? Latch has been replaced previously but at that time it became intermittent. Can I try cleaning the switch? Any diagnosis tips appreciated.

Luckily I put in an emergency release some time ago for this day.

If the fob won’t open it it’s not the switch - mechanism or wiring I presume.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

If the fob won’t open it it’s not the switch - mechanism or wiring I presume.

I read the instructions and the emergency release method on D3 is pressing the console lock and unlock buttons together for 3 seconds (not instantaneously) and voilà it unlocks so the actuator works so probably the external micro switch in the upper tailgate handle. I see PowerfulUK sells the switch only for a quick change.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I read the instructions and the emergency release method on D3 is pressing the console lock and unlock buttons together for 3 seconds (not instantaneously) and voilà it unlocks so the actuator works so probably the external micro switch in the upper tailgate handle. I see PowerfulUK sells the switch only for a quick change.

If you need one in a hurry I have an aftermarket one here. When mine failed I bought 2.

Boot Tailgate Opener Release Control Latch For Ford Focus MK2 C-Max 2004-2008 | eBay