Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by Saitch

A more simple question than some of you poor buggers on here, recently.

Starting a couple of months ago, my D3, when turning the ignition to 'On', is doing one sweep of the windscreen wipers and occasionally, on starting, will do another sweep. This can occur even after the vehicle has been sitting in the shed for a week and it's as dry as the proverbial 'Dead Dingo's'.

Anything to worry about, or just an idiosyncrasy?

We've had this.

It could be a faulty rain sensor in the widescreen or more likely a tiny bit of muck, it doesn't need to be wet either.

I'd try washing the rain sensor and see what happens.

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Hi,
10000 k services, 188,000 klm, timing belts done at 165000.
Cheers
Les

What viscosity oil have you been using?

There is increasing opinion that low viscosity oil is not good enough for higher mileage modern engines.
Lets face it, the only reason manufacturers use it is to help achieve lower friction/better fuel economy... on paper at least!

The LC300 L/cruiser is known to have engine bearing failure which the experts are saying is caused by one of two things.
a) The known oil consumption problem causing low sump oil level which causes brg failure
b) Toyota's use of 0W20 oil which thins out at higher temps (circa 125 deg) and is not "good" for 20,000 klm oil changes.

Apparently in the Handbook Toyota list a heap of driving conditions (which cover virtually every condition any driver will experience!) in which the oil used should be 5W30 or 5W40 and oil change periods reduced.

Now, in my opinion this sort of stuff is exactly applicable to our engines!
I've been running Penrite HPR5 up from 5W30 for around 60,000 klms and have seen a noticeable improvement in oil analysis results since changing to the 5W40. (currently have 212,000 klms)

A really interesting U-Tube to watch is: "Engine Failure Toyota 300 Series: Causes and easy fixes" by Just Auto Mechanical. Worth a look as it explains the viscosity issue.

Another is: "Landcruiser 300 series Engine failure: What's going to be their weak link?" by D-4D Engines and similar subject of conrod brg failure.

Originally Posted by Discodicky

b) Toyota's use of 0W20 oil which thins out at higher temps (circa 125 deg) and is not "good" for 20,000 klm oil changes..

Defender uses the same oil with services pushed out to over 30,00Km......

Back on topic,it is the HT/HS rating(C5) of the oil which is a problem,under certain operating conditions..The rating is higher in 0W-30,or 5w-30 oils.

JA have released Part 2 of that original vid,sorry i don't have a link ATM

Hi DD,
I have been using Penrite C4 5w-30 ,but was thinking about going to Penrite Enviro+ 5w-40. I have never had the oil tested for impurities, but I may start doing so if I manage to get it back on the road.
I have located an engine, and am just waiting on an estimate for installation from an indie I have known for years and used until I moved away some years ago.
Fingers crossed.
Cheers
Les

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Hi DD,
I have been using Penrite C4 5w-30 ,but was thinking about going to Penrite Enviro+ 5w-40. I have never had the oil tested for impurities, but I may start doing so if I manage to get it back on the road.
I have located an engine, and am just waiting on an estimate for installation from an indie I have known for years and used until I moved away some years ago.
Fingers crossed.
Cheers
Les

Aus delivered 3.0 don’t have a DPF so a straight out HPR5 will do the job admirably.

No need for the lows SAPS stuff

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Hi DD,
I have been using Penrite C4 5w-30 ,but was thinking about going to Penrite Enviro+ 5w-40. I have never had the oil tested for impurities, but I may start doing so if I manage to get it back on the road.
I have located an engine, and am just waiting on an estimate for installation from an indie I have known for years and used until I moved away some years ago.
Fingers crossed.
Cheers
Les

Are you sure what's actually wrong with it yet?

Not sure yet what actually happened. Won't know until the engine is out and can be dismantled. In laymans terms it's brucked.
Car is still enroute home.

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Not sure yet what actually happened. Won't know until the engine is out and can be dismantled. In laymans terms it's brucked.
Car is still enroute home.

I think that pulling the timing cover to check the cam sprockets works be a good idea, and the back ones as well just to check.

I guess I do all my own work and I don't put a $ value on it (which is bad) so I realise you could easily run to $1k labour just investigating only to discover she's fritzed.

If it was a cam sprocket, whether a head could be pulled and rebuilt or not I don't know, depend on the damage to the piston as well .