What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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11th November 2024, 07:01 AM
goldey

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Does anybody have some idea of what my disco might fetch at the wreckers. All VGC apart from engine.
Still mulling my best way out of this fiasco. Has anyone parted one out themselves and how long did it take.
Cheers
Les

I too am very sorry to hear of your misfortune. We suffered a broken crank in our 2011 SDV6 D4 about three years ago and were able to source a lower mileage (kmage?) second hand SDV6 from a guy in Windsor. All up instead of the $40k JLR quoted us (sorry what.....) we ended up with about $18k out of pocket. Disco has been running strong since then, however I did also start going down the route of wreckers and parting out, but lucked in on the second hand motor about 2 mths after the failure. The wreckers were dismissive at best and I was offered $3k for the complete 2011 HSE SDV6 with $160km ruined motor (with everything else in VGC), which I thought was absolutely disgusting, but nevertheless what they thought it was worth. Started making plans to try and part out the Disco and buy a cheap Jap 4wd when we were offered the lifeline.

I sincerely hope that you have similar fortune. If not, strap in for a long journey of self discovery (no pun intended). I'm still waiting for JLR to sort their s&^t out just in case this next motor carks it.
11th November 2024, 07:38 AM
shack

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saitch

A more simple question than some of you poor buggers on here, recently. [bigsad]

Starting a couple of months ago, my D3, when turning the ignition to 'On', is doing one sweep of the windscreen wipers and occasionally, on starting, will do another sweep. This can occur even after the vehicle has been sitting in the shed for a week and it's as dry as the proverbial 'Dead Dingo's'.

Anything to worry about, or just an idiosyncrasy?

We've had this.

It could be a faulty rain sensor in the widescreen or more likely a tiny bit of muck, it doesn't need to be wet either.

I'd try washing the rain sensor and see what happens.
11th November 2024, 04:21 PM
Discodicky

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Hi,
10000 k services, 188,000 klm, timing belts done at 165000.
Cheers
Les

What viscosity oil have you been using?

There is increasing opinion that low viscosity oil is not good enough for higher mileage modern engines.
Lets face it, the only reason manufacturers use it is to help achieve lower friction/better fuel economy... on paper at least!

The LC300 L/cruiser is known to have engine bearing failure which the experts are saying is caused by one of two things.
a) The known oil consumption problem causing low sump oil level which causes brg failure
b) Toyota's use of 0W20 oil which thins out at higher temps (circa 125 deg) and is not "good" for 20,000 klm oil changes.

Apparently in the Handbook Toyota list a heap of driving conditions (which cover virtually every condition any driver will experience!) in which the oil used should be 5W30 or 5W40 and oil change periods reduced.

Now, in my opinion this sort of stuff is exactly applicable to our engines!
I've been running Penrite HPR5 up from 5W30 for around 60,000 klms and have seen a noticeable improvement in oil analysis results since changing to the 5W40. (currently have 212,000 klms)

A really interesting U-Tube to watch is: "Engine Failure Toyota 300 Series: Causes and easy fixes" by Just Auto Mechanical. Worth a look as it explains the viscosity issue.

Another is: "Landcruiser 300 series Engine failure: What's going to be their weak link?" by D-4D Engines and similar subject of conrod brg failure.
11th November 2024, 07:21 PM
scarry

Quote:

Originally Posted by Discodicky

b) Toyota's use of 0W20 oil which thins out at higher temps (circa 125 deg) and is not "good" for 20,000 klm oil changes..

Defender uses the same oil with services pushed out to over 30,00Km......

Back on topic,it is the HT/HS rating(C5) of the oil which is a problem,under certain operating conditions..The rating is higher in 0W-30,or 5w-30 oils.

JA have released Part 2 of that original vid,sorry i don't have a link ATM[bigsmile1]
11th November 2024, 07:43 PM
LuckyLes

Hi DD,
I have been using Penrite C4 5w-30 ,but was thinking about going to Penrite Enviro+ 5w-40. I have never had the oil tested for impurities, but I may start doing so if I manage to get it back on the road.
I have located an engine, and am just waiting on an estimate for installation from an indie I have known for years and used until I moved away some years ago.
Fingers crossed.
Cheers
Les
11th November 2024, 08:20 PM
Tombie

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Hi DD,
I have been using Penrite C4 5w-30 ,but was thinking about going to Penrite Enviro+ 5w-40. I have never had the oil tested for impurities, but I may start doing so if I manage to get it back on the road.
I have located an engine, and am just waiting on an estimate for installation from an indie I have known for years and used until I moved away some years ago.
Fingers crossed.
Cheers
Les

Aus delivered 3.0 don’t have a DPF so a straight out HPR5 will do the job admirably.

No need for the lows SAPS stuff
11th November 2024, 08:31 PM
shack

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Hi DD,
I have been using Penrite C4 5w-30 ,but was thinking about going to Penrite Enviro+ 5w-40. I have never had the oil tested for impurities, but I may start doing so if I manage to get it back on the road.
I have located an engine, and am just waiting on an estimate for installation from an indie I have known for years and used until I moved away some years ago.
Fingers crossed.
Cheers
Les

Are you sure what's actually wrong with it yet?
12th November 2024, 08:59 AM
LuckyLes

Not sure yet what actually happened. Won't know until the engine is out and can be dismantled. In laymans terms it's brucked.
Car is still enroute home.
12th November 2024, 10:28 AM
shack

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Not sure yet what actually happened. Won't know until the engine is out and can be dismantled. In laymans terms it's brucked.
Car is still enroute home.

I think that pulling the timing cover to check the cam sprockets works be a good idea, and the back ones as well just to check.

I guess I do all my own work and I don't put a $ value on it (which is bad) so I realise you could easily run to $1k labour just investigating only to discover she's fritzed.

If it was a cam sprocket, whether a head could be pulled and rebuilt or not I don't know, depend on the damage to the piston as well .
12th November 2024, 02:04 PM
dolphinberserk

2 Attachment(s)

Thermostat (PRT) the same for all 2.7 TDV6 D3's and D4s"?

Hi all,

I'm starting work on the D4 (2011 2.7) cooling system - the water pump has a massive leak and while I replace it with an Airtex pump, I'm covering other items as I go.
Need to order the thermostat (I mean the PRT at the bottom of the engine, not the water outlet in the V) but the part number I've found online is confusing.
Is this the correct part (British 4WD on eBay) for a 2011 TDV6 2.7 D4? Or does the thermostat (PRT) vary from year to year?
The part number is given as LR009562, as you can see, but..
LR009562 is also used in some catalogues to refer to the water outlet in the V I also hear the Water Outlet referred to as "the thermostat" on Disco3 forum - the Workshop Manual names these as

Water Outlet (given as '5')
Attachment 191737

Thermostat (PRT) - (connected to hose '16')
Attachment 191738

Can anyone set me straight on the correct part numbers (and names)?

BTW I plan to replace the Water Outlet in the V with an aluminium unit I have bought. As it is often called a 'thermostat' - is it supposed to contain a thermostatic valve (I read no mention of a TV in the water outlet in the workshop manual, but am I missing something)?

Rich

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