Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

2K is 2part paint (with hardener)

You can buy it in special cans in specialty paint shops in any colour or clear same as your car’s clear coat. Once activated the paint goes off hard so try and find a small can just for the headlights. Don’t fall for 1K.

My son’s Subaru was my first try. First I used one of those kits and it was even worse after 6 months. Then I saw the clear coat method which requires a fair bit of care to mask off and cover the front of the car so you only paint the headlights. There’s heaps of YouTube videos.

It takes about 30 minutes all up to sand and paint. Take great care to get everything super clean and dry after wet sanding.

The results are brilliant you just need to commit to the method of a light dusting coat then after 5 minutes a heavy coat and that’s it. Remove the tape and plastic promptly after that.

They were totally yellow previously.

I have fine cracks in the surface of mine. I’m scared to sand it deep enough to remove them

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster;[emoji639

[emoji6][emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]I have fine cracks in the surface of mine. I’m scared to sand it deep enough to remove them

The Subaru is holding up well. It’s the same as clear coat on car so should be perfect if you do it properly with regard to all prep etc.

To be honest I did mine the day after the Subaru but it was quite orange peely which I put down to the can going off.

I left it like that for months then sanded and did it again perfecto.

Variety Paints in Wangara do the clear coat cans.

Am I understanding/reading this correctly?
2 pack paint, normal clear without and plastic primer and it sticks long term and the clear goes hard without being baked?
Generally plastic must have a special primer for paint to stick and 2 pack must be baked in an oven to harden properly

Yep 2K clear coat worked wonders on my old MX5 NB headlights, and also on my sons old Honda Legend. That reminds me I need to do my D4 headlights soon, though working around the bullbar is a pain in the a*@e.
Recently got new boots on the tuffant alloys on my D4. I have finally conceded and gone back to 'standard' size tyres. Ended up with 5 new 265/60R18 Falken Wildpeaks. First thing I noticed was a tiny bit more up and go off the line (maybe just in my head?) and then to be able to trust the car around wet corners again, aaah bliss. The old tyres were clapped out Nitto muddies 265/65R18s and they had a diminishing resemblance to grip on the road, even more diabolical when it looked like precipitation .

Originally Posted by discomatt69

Am I understanding/reading this correctly?
2 pack paint, normal clear without and plastic primer and it sticks long term and the clear goes hard without being baked?
Generally plastic must have a special primer for paint to stick and 2 pack must be baked in an oven to harden properly

2k in a can has a hardner built in so no need for baking. I painted a car in 2K years ago outside and the finish was great, heated booth is obviously better though.

Yep 2K hard as a rock in 30 minutes but don’t go washing it for a few days. The UHT paints for rocker cover and exhaust want you to bake them but these aren’t 2K.

After sanding to 1200 the headlights are opaque. That’s what it keys to and becomes crystal clear.

The absolute key is prep and cleanliness. Wipe down with acetone or isopropyl alcohol then tack rag then shoot. You get a plastic paint sheet from Bunnings $2 and put over front of car and cut out headlights and tape to the border you have put around the headlights.

Just search 2K clear headlight repair and you’ll see some great videos on the steps you must follow perfectly or end up with a mess.

First time I tried I removed the headlights. This was a mistake. So much easier in the car to mask the border and sand and protect and paint. Bonnet is up and grille is out so you tape the plastic sheet over the engine around the front and up the sides.

Yes, painting likes a warm day and no wind. Heat can prior in the sun or hot air gun a little.

Originally Posted by goldey

Yep 2K clear coat worked wonders on my old MX5 NB headlights, and also on my sons old Honda Legend. That reminds me I need to do my D4 headlights soon, though working around the bullbar is a pain in the a*@e.
Recently got new boots on the tuffant alloys on my D4. I have finally conceded and gone back to 'standard' size tyres. Ended up with 5 new 265/60R18 Falken Wildpeaks. First thing I noticed was a tiny bit more up and go off the line (maybe just in my head?) and then to be able to trust the car around wet corners again, aaah bliss. The old tyres were clapped out Nitto muddies 265/65R18s and they had a diminishing resemblance to grip on the road, even more diabolical when it looked like precipitation .

I’m loving the Wildpeaks also and I really loved the D697 Bridgestones I had 3 sets of prior.

During the recent suspension overhaul I also fitted the braided SS brake lines that Island 4x4 sell as a Britpart kit. You have to undo the brake lines to remove the upper rear arms so good timing. The kit and quality was excellent much to my relief. Perfect fit.

I must say that in addition to fresh fluid it feels like another 10-20% of stopping power has been gained. Seriously noticeable. Old flex hoses were not cracked but 18 years old.

Originally Posted by SimmAus

Finally installed some driving lights…recently moved more rural, and the hoppy skippy things are more abundant than Sydney suburbia.

Installed Lazer lamps, with grille mount (full kit supplied).
About a days work….but I tripled measured, postulated, second guessed almost everything….especially when taking a hacksaw blade to the front grille.


Switch mounted near my llams.

Lights are pretty awesome….dare I say, night / day different.

I’ve always been intrigued by these - great to hear a real world experience.

Do they bounce/move at all when driving?