Thread: 2.7 TDV6 oil pressure - testing and specs

Pointing out the obvious - your oil light isn’t on and your engine is still turning over. Both those are general indicators your oil pump is ok, lol. If you put a gauge on and have more around 7psi or more at idle then you’ve ruled out a faulty oil pressure indicator and a faulty pump.

Oil pressure isn’t a precise thing which is why they talk in minimums. If your oil pressure is low then it is unlikely related to the pump and more to do with engine bearings which help to keep up the pressure. Worn bearings leak more, lowering pressure.

Oil pressure at idle is not regulated and simply the result of an rpm cycle moving an amount of oil and the resistance in the engine caused by the orifices it flows through. At elevated RPM, that’s where the relief valve operates to avoid over-pressurisation.

So the actual issue you have is you say the engine is rattly at idle so you suspect low pressure? Refer to first paragraph.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Pointing out the obvious - your oil light isn’t on and your engine is still turning over. Both those are general indicators your oil pump is ok, lol. If you put a gauge on and have more around 7psi or more at idle then you’ve ruled out a faulty oil pressure indicator and a faulty pump.

Oil pressure isn’t a precise thing which is why they talk in minimums. If your oil pressure is low then it is unlikely related to the pump and more to do with engine bearings which help to keep up the pressure. Worn bearings leak more, lowering pressure.

Oil pressure at idle is not regulated and simply the result of an rpm cycle moving an amount of oil and the resistance in the engine caused by the orifices it flows through. At elevated RPM, that’s where the relief valve operates to avoid over-pressurisation.

So the actual issue you have is you say the engine is rattly at idle so you suspect low pressure? Refer to first paragraph.

How many kilometres does it have?
Oil pumps are not light switches, they are not either on or off, they wear out gradually like all hydraulic pumps, worn pumps can suffer at low rpm, put a gauge on it and watch it while listening to the engine, you should be able to feather the throttle up slowly while watching the gauge.
How much extra work to change the pump while doing the belts? If it’s only $200 and it feels good, then do it

It won’t hurt to change it - unless of course the new oil seal isn’t installed using the special tools and it leaks, like can happen on these cars with the PTFE oil seal! A lot to remove and replace to redo the oil seal.

My D4 oil pump was changed as part of its freshen up at 270,000km along with new bearings. Didn’t have any indication of any need, but deemed a good idea as part of the freshen up. It was a Land Rover one though so came at a price premium that’s for sure. That’s what comes with having someone else doing the work for you.

Originally Posted by josh.huber

How many kilometres does it have?
Oil pumps are not light switches, they are not either on or off, they wear out gradually like all hydraulic pumps, worn pumps can suffer at low rpm, put a gauge on it and watch it while listening to the engine, you should be able to feather the throttle up slowly while watching the gauge.
How much extra work to change the pump while doing the belts? If it’s only $200 and it feels good, then do it

This was pretty much my thoughts. I'm already almost there just in doing the timing belt that's due.

The vehicle has 166,000ish km on it now and has just clicked over 7 years from date of build (I assume date of sale/first driven would be later as had to be shipped to Australia etc.). Previously serviced by Land Rover Melbourne by the old owner but while it had all it's services they were almost always a tad late - possibly why the pump has worn faster? It's possible that the bearings are also a tad tired too.

Genuine Ford replacement oil pump is $170.00 delivered. I've already got the crankshaft oil seal, two pump seals and bolt in from the UK for cheap.

Pretty sure that either the ABW fuel pressure gauge set or compression tester kit I have in the garage doubles up as an oil pressure gauge too. I've never used it for that purpose but hopefully it has the right size thread (1/4" NPT) to fit into the TDV6 in the kit.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

It won’t hurt to change it - unless of course the new oil seal isn’t installed using the special tools and it leaks, like can happen on these cars with the PTFE oil seal! A lot to remove and replace to redo the oil seal.

My main concern is fitting the crankshaft oil seal following the pump installation as I don't have the special LR tools.

I’ve read a heap on the seal fitment and all the mess ups. If you buy a non-genuine seal from one of the aftermarket mobs (Victor Reinz) it comes with a cheap seal fitting tool which you can use with the genuine seal.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

If you buy a non-genuine seal from one of the aftermarket mobs (Victor Reinz) it comes with a cheap seal fitting tool which you can use with the genuine seal.

Victor Reinz is the OEM supplier to Land Rover for the 1102415 oil seal.

Handy to know that they come with a cheap seal fitting tool.


The guide offers:

You can now fit the new crankshaft oil seal making sure you don’t damage it, just wipe some clean oil on the lip of the seal and slide it on the shaft, I used a big socket over the seal to tap it in but make sure you do not tap it in to far’ it needs to be at least 1mm proud of the casing, If the seal is to far in it will leak after a short time.

EDIT: just found this thread < DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Oil Pump Crankshaft Seal Fitting > which shows using the Victor Reinz plastic seal fitting ring and the plastic spacer found in the new oil pump to fit the seal in squarely.

Personally I would be surprised with pump wear at those k’s, thought maybe it might be on its second belt change

Unless it has been seriously neglected the pump is unlikely to be worn, I don't think you will find any reports on any of the forums of premature wearing.
Bearing issue is more likely but again not that common and generally only in earlier engines.