I'll be measuring the new O-ring before handing it over to the mechanic assuming that I buy the kit.
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That o ring isn't for the d3/4 etc. The same kit with syringe and o ring Is for the non modified L322 front diff coupling. That original splined coupling uses the o ring, and the same grease syringe. Just happens to be supplied with the grease for d3/4 etc. It's not originally in there, nor is there anywhere to fit it.
Hi Justin, you may have missed a question I was hoping you could answer a couple of pages ago:
At what time/mileage, or under what conditions, does the original lubrication dry up or become ineffective? Should it be something you need to attend to at, say, each drive belt replacement time?
Graeme, I have a few of the syringes of grease if you want one, but personally I'd use Moly grease. And to add to my last post, that SAME grease and o ring kit is supplied with the puma spud shaft repair kit. Again, no o ring in those either.
Sorry, yes forgot to add the reply.
The original lube is A) insufficient in volume, and B) effected by heat and goes hard.
Every one I have removed is like it, some as low as 100k. However, the beginning of spline degradation is dependent on load, driving style, heat, and probably other factors , too.
Maybe at the 120k major service, or every 7 to 9 years at Timing belt change, like you suggest, would be a good time.
Here is a link to a supplier and parts diagram, which was posted on FFRR forum. The shaft is numbered 9 on the diagram.
https://jpat.co.uk/uploads/1/0/3/5/1...overitcpla.pdf
Hey JC...you should be doing You Tube vids of these procedures..like Juice Motors..and making cash for comment😎
Kids are telling me how much these You Tubers earn... I nearly hit the floor..no wonder jokers like 4wd 24-7 do what they do...son's mate worked for them for a while..they didn't pay him of much of course..but they were/are making heaps.
Get on board the gravey train JC😉
Our loss could be your gain☺