High KMS - Transfer case...

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Originally Posted by Graeme

I would expect on/off throttle to be the main culprit and therefore worse for manual gboxes, not that there'd be many of those. Once loaded the wear should be minimal.

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So I did some research. Generally the main wear comes from micro misalignment between the two shafts. Very fractional misalignment accelerates wear plus there is obviously slight slip available so the shafts can be inserted within each other to facilitate assembly etc. With the loss of the protective lubricant wear will accelerate. Splines are a common wear point however they’re normally designed to last the standard service life.

I agree that unload and reload of torque against the box would cause more movement of the two components whereas towing and constant load less so. I’d have said aggressive high-load city driving would be the worst for joint damage but I have no actual evidence to back that up.

Mate has a hoist. I'll pull my transfer next Friday and have a look. My transfer is sloppy. But I'm hoping it's not spline wear..

I don't think it's spline as when you hold the front shafts and rotate the rear. I takes a while indicating wear between those two components. Well at least I hope so.

Another alternative to the moly grease is brake caliper slide grease. I use the Bendix ceremasil. A big tube last a long time. I use it on shafts on boats etc. When doing clutches.

Just confirmed the part numbers of the spare I have in the shed. It's the same. So I'll be changing it. Better do some reading on hot tips for new players. I think I read a top bolt requires beer and swear words

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

Just confirmed the part numbers of the spare I have in the shed. It's the same. So I'll be changing it. Better do some reading on hot tips for new players. I think I read a top bolt requires beer and swear words

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Easy with the right tool 😊

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Originally Posted by justinc

Easy with the right tool 😊

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this one?
Attachment 161974

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Originally Posted by gotaflat

this one?
Attachment 161974

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I use a short offset combination ring open ender, and lever up from underneath to crack it loose. Then a short ratchet ring spanner and fingers

When you say offset Justin. Do you mean offset like a old sidchrome double ring or like a C spanner.

I've got a set of "s" and "C" spanners but for the life of me can't find them. I better go buy some more.

Does the stubby ratchet need a flex head?

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

When you say offset Justin. Do you mean offset like a old sidchrome double ring or like a C spanner.

I've got a set of "s" and "C" spanners but for the life of me can't find them. I better go buy some more.

Does the stubby ratchet need a flex head?

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Even one of these, in 13mm, would be fine


Repco Stubby Stubby Ratchet Wrench 18mm - RTGWS18 - Repco | Repco Australia

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Originally Posted by justinc

Even one of these, in 13mm, would be fine


Repco Stubby Stubby Ratchet Wrench 18mm - RTGWS18 - Repco | Repco Australia

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Legend thanks

From the pictures, it seems that the shaft and splines are rusty, which would accelerate wear. As preventive maintenance, would be worth cleaning them, using a penetrating oil and then using a high temp grease. I assume the o ring is there to keep water out and to keep lubricant in.