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Thread: High KMS - Transfer case...

  1. #81
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    High KMS - Transfer case...

    Good write up on removing the transfer box and input shaft seal replacement here:

    DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Guide: Replacement of Transfer Box Seals

    Plus later in the thread are some tips on how to get to the difficult bolts.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Was the grease and o-ring the kit? 2" is quite different to 40mm.

    Microcat can be lacking accuracy at times, as with any LR documentation.
    The grease and o ring came with the coupling... I have a transfer case overhaul kit arriving, will see if it has the o ring and grease in it, too.
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    What sort of lube? Lithium grease or HP bearing grease? How would lubricating it prolong life? Appears that a splined fit like that shouldn’t allow much relative play until it’s too late and then no amount of lube will help.

    I’m tempted to drop my Transfer Case out for a looksee after 200,000km...
    It's called fretting corrosion, common on any non lubricated male/female spline.
    110/130 owners have been battling that on axle splines since 1993 (unless they modify the setup) as have Tdci Deefer owners on that stupidly designed spud shaft.

    As JC mentioned, a grease with lubricating solids like MoS2 is the go.
    The lubricating solids keep things sliding when the hydrodynamic lube film breaks down under EP loads

  4. #84
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    I would expect on/off throttle to be the main culprit and therefore worse for manual gboxes, not that there'd be many of those
    It'll be interesting to see what goes first then, the clutch or the spline.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Good write up on removing the transfer box and input shaft seal replacement here:

    DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Guide: Replacement of Transfer Box Seals

    Plus later in the thread are some tips on how to get to the difficult bolts.
    Butchering a cheap socket set is a great tip!

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    It's called fretting corrosion, common on any non lubricated male/female spline.
    110/130 owners have been battling that on axle splines since 1993 (unless they modify the setup) as have Tdci Deefer owners on that stupidly designed spud shaft.

    As JC mentioned, a grease with lubricating solids like MoS2 is the go.
    The lubricating solids keep things sliding when the hydrodynamic lube film breaks down under EP loads

    Mm in tractors too from the engine to the clutch assembly...eg our MF input shaft spline failed due to fretting..no lube applied in factory. Fortunately the shaft spline failed...easy replacement from UK. And not the socket which requires a new fluid clutch assembly costing @5k🤤

    MF later changed the design due to failures.

    Why do they do it😞

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    It'll be interesting to see what goes first then, the clutch or the spline.
    My RRC has done 350K and the clutch is still fine, not that it gets any hard work, but it doesn't have this TC with its initial-only (if you're lucky) lubricated spline on the input shaft.
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  8. #88
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Was the grease and o-ring the kit? 2" is quite different to 40mm.

    Microcat can be lacking accuracy at times, as with any LR documentation.
    I re measured the oring and housing. Mine is definitely 2x40

  9. #89
    josh.huber Guest


    Couple of different angles for photos. But with and without the oring fitted..
    Research shows the box is compatible with my D4 but came out of a V8 rrs

  10. #90
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    So no o-ring originally???
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