Good write up on removing the transfer box and input shaft seal replacement here:
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Guide: Replacement of Transfer Box Seals
Plus later in the thread are some tips on how to get to the difficult bolts.
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
It's called fretting corrosion, common on any non lubricated male/female spline.
110/130 owners have been battling that on axle splines since 1993 (unless they modify the setup) as have Tdci Deefer owners on that stupidly designed spud shaft.
As JC mentioned, a grease with lubricating solids like MoS2 is the go.
The lubricating solids keep things sliding when the hydrodynamic lube film breaks down under EP loads
Mm in tractors too from the engine to the clutch assembly...eg our MF input shaft spline failed due to fretting..no lube applied in factory. Fortunately the shaft spline failed...easy replacement from UK. And not the socket which requires a new fluid clutch assembly costing @5k🤤
MF later changed the design due to failures.
Why do they do it😞
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
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Couple of different angles for photos. But with and without the oring fitted..
Research shows the box is compatible with my D4 but came out of a V8 rrs
So no o-ring originally???
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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