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Thread: Suspension lifetime

  1. #61
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    Island 4x4 part numbers are similar, they state OEM but not the actual manufacturer.
    4D2A8FE1-51D0-48BE-9444-6E4B537B2F52.jpg

    Pricing is better than AF, just not sure what I’m getting....


    Update 15/12:
    OK, so Island 4x4 got back to me overnight, apparently these are BWI units. They also advised that BWI owns Delphi. Happy to go down this path provided the dampers inside are for a D4 and not for a D3....waiting for Island 4x4 to get back to me on that one.

  2. #62
    LRD414's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Interesting Scott, that means there must have been a change in OEM supply at some time. My original fitment are Delphi (MY11 D4 SDV6SE). They’ve done 205000km. I also read that replacement Delphi units had issues. I wonder if both the Delphi and BWI have the same shock absorber in them and that just the airbag is different.
    I understand it's the shock absorber that was changed and maybe the air bag too.
    Graeme reported on relative performance a few years ago.
    Based on that and other feedback I decided to stay with D4 version, ie BWI
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    I’d ask them for a kit price. It’s just a further discount for bulk.
    Probably right but my order also included a LCA kit and I preferred to keep the value of individual orders below $1,000 hoping to avoid extra customs duty and/or gst.
    I realise the old $1000 o/s gst limit is no longer in place but sometimes this tactic works, sometimes not. It worked in this instance as nothing extra was paid.

    PS ... Advanced Factors state on delivery options page: We cannot offer prices including customs clearance, you are responsible for local duties
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Pretty sure there’s no strut difference between D3 and D4.

    Edit- oops see now this is wrong but can’t see why the difference would matter as the rest of suspension is the same except for AMK compressor maybe.
    There was a big difference in the dampening settings.

  5. #65
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    Suspension lifetime

    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    There was a big difference in the dampening settings.
    Probably linked to the Moose Test and move to 19” wheels to stiffen it up which is not to say the previous version weren’t just as good mechanically or better from a feel or comfort point of view.

    In any case there should be no material price / weight / size difference as dampening is just shims inside changing the oil passages ever so slightly.

  6. #66
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    Suspension lifetime

    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    For me the hardest part of the job was removal of the bolts in the hydro bush. My bushes were shagged and had no more fluid in them. The bolts were rusted to the bush centre. After the nut and washers were removed they would not push through and had to be cut and head end between the bush and mount.
    First I have heard of this in Australia as yes they can be a bit reluctant but not stuck like the UK cars needing cutting. An air hammer gun is a cheapish tool ideal for this problem also.

    Have you done a lot of beach work?

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Probably linked to the Moose Test and move to 19” wheels to stiffen it up which is not to say the previous version weren’t just as good mechanically or better from a feel or comfort point of view.

    In any case there should be no material price / weight / size difference as dampening is just shims inside changing the oil passages ever so slightly.
    Possibly. Having had the old boys D3 for quite a while before I got the D4 I prefer the slightly firmer D4 ride.

  8. #68
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    Thanks. I’ll get a ball joint tool in that case, although I’m not sure what to get really.
    As others have said, it's not really hard, just the hardest part of this job by far. The rest is so easy.
    Personally. They are not expensive and they save you flogging the cast arms. I'm all for handy pretty tools. But that's just me. I bought a good priced one the other day but was too small for the joint itself. From memory it needs to have a jaw opening of at least 28mm. Might be a idea to measure first. Most I see are around 20mm we need them bigger. The smaller one I bought in the bargain bin at Bunnings will do tie rods etc

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Probably linked to the Moose Test and move to 19” wheels to stiffen it up which is not to say the previous version weren’t just as good mechanically or better from a feel or comfort point of view.

    In any case there should be no material price / weight / size difference as dampening is just shims inside changing the oil passages ever so slightly.
    So no real world difference then.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    From memory it needs to have a jaw opening of at least 28mm.
    I found this Stanley one with a max opening size of 48mm
    Stanley Ball Joint Separator | Bunnings Warehouse

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