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Thread: Found Oil in LPG converter???

  1. #11
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    I think I found my problem.
    After changing, cleaning just about everything I could I find I removed the IAC again and it had the remnants of the old gasket, washer stuck to the plenum, so I scraped it of and tightened it again and everything now works( sort of). It's amazing how something so minuscule could cause everything to run ****e, so thanks for all the help guys.
    Ps.
    One thing I noticed when I had the dissy cap of was the rotor button
    can turn freely left and right about a half inch this ain't right is it?
    Also i can blow and suck really easy down the rubber hose into the vacuume advance on the side of the dissy, I thought there should be some resistance.
    One more thing is that the idle screw on the gas thingy does nothing at all, shouldn't it have something to do?
    Thanks again

  2. #12
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    Apr 2009
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    Your distributor needs an overhaul. New vacuum advance capsule from Advanced Diaphragm Options

    Advance Diaphragm Options

    or

    Performance ignitions, Nunawading Vic

    Tips on dismantling and repair here:

    Lucas V8 dissy nylon clip repair method.

    Idle mixture (on most Impco mixers) works on an air bypass, once it is above a certain size it makes little difference. Wind it all the way in, should make it run rich. Otherwise get an overhaul kit for the mixer, it may need a new diaphragm as said before. It may also have a warped body from backfiring.

  3. #13
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    Thanks for your help,
    I changed the dissy and advance but still have a problem, when i adjust the dissy left or right i cant get the idle above 1100 revs, it should go higher than that i think, because when I put it in to drive and put the air con on it drops about 700 revs and nearly stalls.
    Next prob is that when I put the acceleror down just a bit while in drive it coughs and splutters on gas or petrol, ive still got plenty of go when I put my foot down though but even then it feels like it looses power just a bit ever few seconds.
    Thanks

  4. #14
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    Apr 2009
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    Your distributor may be one tooth out on the drive gear. You will need to rotate the oil pump drive shaft slightly for the distributor to go back all the way in after rotating the dissy shaft 1 tooth clockwise.

    You really should use a timing light to set the timing at idle to 10 degrees BTDC. Then you can test for vacuum and mechanical advance at the same time.

  5. #15
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    Hey
    Timing was and is 10.
    Idle revs are now bout 1500 from 1000 yesterday don't know why the change.
    When I put it into drive with the handbrake on it revs bout 700, then I will accelerate slightly upto about 1100 /1300 it starts to die then hunt continually.
    I don't know why, it goes like a rocket when you put your foot down and idle is ok it's that spot in the middle where it runs crap, on petrol and LPG.
    Cheers

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vorlon View Post
    Hey
    Timing was and is 10.
    Idle revs are now bout 1500 from 1000 yesterday don't know why the change.
    When I put it into drive with the handbrake on it revs bout 700, then I will accelerate slightly upto about 1100 /1300 it starts to die then hunt continually.
    I don't know why, it goes like a rocket when you put your foot down and idle is ok it's that spot in the middle where it runs crap, on petrol and LPG.
    Cheers
    I suggest you try another rotor button. Yours may be travelling too far away from the dissy terminal if it is loose. There is a Ford one that works very well, part number GB864, much cheaper than OEM, has a wider electrode, good quality.

  7. #17
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    Hey
    I did try that rotor on Sunday past after seeing it posted elsewhere as a possible solution.
    First that rotor was a very tight fit on the post and under the cap and
    The results were Mega back/front fires and smoke coming out of the air filter.
    So that don't work for me.
    Things I have changed to try to fix my prob is new leads, plugs with gaps of .711
    New Bosch dissy cap but I changed back to the original Lucas because it ran better, distributor and advance, tps, iac air hoses and made sure there were no leaks around the plenum.
    Something I noticed when I had the plenum off is that 4 of the pipes where loose and had lifted up out of there holes, could this be a problem?
    Thanks

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vorlon View Post
    Something I noticed when I had the plenum off is that 4 of the pipes where loose and had lifted up out of there holes, could this be a problem?
    Thanks
    Dunno about making it run badly but they can really rattle under power. I expand them slightly and set them in loctite retaining compound.

    You haven't indicated if you fixed/checked the mechanical advance. Check that the rotor button is pointing exactly at a cylinder lead when the pickup under the plastic cover is lined up with a tooth on the star wheel. It sounds like its waaay out by the fact the Ford rotor didn't work. Perhaps it's time to scare up another working dissy.

  9. #19
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    Yep, just double checked that and it's right.
    I'm going to put the original coil and connections back
    because that's when all this all started, unless you have
    something Else to try?
    Thanks

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