Thread: Engine disabled

Originally Posted by glenhendry

Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
...after entering the EKA but before unlocking is complete cancels the unlocking...


Interesting. Since the last action in the EKA entry -IS- unlocking, what does this mean?

I think you miss read Bee utey's message

Originally Posted by bee utey

Another stare at RAVE: When entering the EKA you must not open the doors until the unlock procedure is complete. Opening the bonnet after entering the EKA but before unlocking is complete cancels the unlocking. Check your bonnet switch is adjusted and working.

Mike

OK. I have checked the bonnet switch best I could. Hard to see in there. The car has always complained about the bonnet being open in the past, but I am not certain how to test it in this current immobilised state. I will work it further.

Secondly, I am definitely NOT getting the side lights flashing during the EKA procedure. The drivers door lock is physically moving and unlocking the door, but I do not think that the BeCM knows that the EKA is underway.

Along with the bonnet switch, I think this is my next course. I need to work out what is stopping the becm from seeing the EKA procedure is underway.

Thanks everyone for your help so far. Other reading suggests that the becm is out of sync from the ecu, but since it started yesterday, I dont think that is it.

Once youve done your 4 turns to lock to tell the BECM you are about to enter the EKA you should only get the side lights indicator inside the car on the instrument cluster light up, not the sidelights themselves. At least thats how it works on mine. But hey, they can be individuals these things...

From RAVE again:

"When the EKA code has been entered, the security LED will continue to flash in deterrent mode to show the alarm is partially disarmed and will be triggered if the bonnet is opened." I assume you then have to lock/unlock using the handset to fully disarm the vehicle.

If your dash reads KEY CODE LOCKOUT you have to wait until it resets. (30 mins)

"If the vehicle has not been locked with the remote handset then in step 4 (of the EKA procedure ie after you have closed all the doors) the key must be turned 4 times to the lock position."

What a circus. I'm glad I don't have one. Pity I can't just copy/paste the RAVE instructions easily. Hope you win.

With mine when closing bonnet have to give an extra bush down on the drivers side to get bonnet to lock in. Looks as tho its shut but gets bonnet open message otherwise. Hope this is of some help.

Gary

Well guys, thanks for not giving up on me. I am not giving up. I spent another 6 hours today as well as 8 hours yesterday having stern words to my Rangie.

I pulled out the battery, the battery casing, the bonnet latch (GEE thats hard to get to), the fuse box. I disconnected and reconnected all the plugs on the fuse box. I disconnected, sanded and re-tightened all the earth points and positive battery terminals. I took off the body plate atop the radiator. I reconnected the drivers door to body multi plug. I disconnected and reconnected every BeCM connector I could access easily. I pushed the inertia switch button. I did a special RR dance with my daughter. I sang to her delicately. I prayed.

Attached is the pic of the difficult to remove bonnet microswitch. Hopefully this helps others in the future.

I am still not driving. I have no idea what to do. Now after I did the RR renos today, when I "break in" by using the key instead of the remote fob, I get loud annoying horn noises when I didnt before, I think that when I was redoing all the earth points behind the battery holder I 'fixed' the horn. I cant believe this dumb system doesnt realise that I have the key that opens the door and also the same key that fits the ignition and I cant be trusted.

The bonnet latch switch looks fine. fyi in the future - the grille is very easy to remove, the battery and battery holder is easy to remove, the fuse box is easy to remove, the radiator top plate is easy to remove, but all that takes 2 hours to get to the bonnet switch easily. And my best advice in the universe is: dont fight with a multiplug connector like it is your wife. Spend 1 minute and WORK OUT what the lock clip thing is on each multiplug that stops it falling apart and then just unclip it before you let the dragon out

Thanks daljames for that specific detail, I was trying to watch the external indicator lights rather than the dashboard lights.

Glen

It doesn't sound too promising.... unfortunately.

Usually the RR dance with one's offspring will do the trick !

I can't help wondering if the door latch mechanism itself is dodgy and needs to be replaced. Not saying its definitely the problem but all the symptoms are there.

I bought my replacement unit from Britpart for about $240.

Then, unfortunately if you thought today's exercise tested your patience, wait until you have a go at swapping the door latch out.

I documented my findings here...

If you ever need to replace your driver's door latch .....

If you decide to give it a go, I'd be happy to give you a hand.

Cheers
Dave

Originally Posted by adm333

Glen
If you decide to give it a go, I'd be happy to give you a hand.
Dave

Onya Dave - you are a champ. I am really getting stumped now. I dont think the car knows that I am trying to do the EKA, so I fear that the driver's door latch is not listening carefully to my key movements.