Thread: Engine disabled

Originally Posted by glenhendry

The C1357 connector diagram from RAVE is as attached. Its the connector with nothing connected to it under the fuse box in the engine bay. I dont know if that helps us?

I will fit the temp earth to terminal 85 this morning as suggested, once its not so early that the horn alarm will wake all the neighbors.

Well! Having found the plug there should be the two wire colours mentioned. Make a jumper plug to connect the white wire to the blue/red stripe wire.

Last foolish question, is the battery fully charged? I only ask this as last night I had to rescue friends in their '08 Astra Diesel when their battery went flat driving home with the alternator light on. Boy were the electronics freaking. A night on the charge and it started in the morning.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Last foolish question, is the battery fully charged? I only ask this as last night I had to rescue friends in their '08 Astra Diesel when their battery went flat driving home with the alternator light on. Boy were the electronics freaking. A night on the charge and it started in the morning.

No foolishness about it. The battery has been getting a flogging. It goes flat every two days or so due to (I think) rogue RF radiation near my home. I have recently bought a jump start box to get her going whenever its flat in the morning. To make matters worse, its a Supercheap 490CCA battery from the previous owner. So the battery has been fine (as in working), but its not big or high quality, or guaranteed to always have a very full charge. Interestingly though, it starts the car fine even when it is low on voltage.

I am afraid that I didnt get a chance to short the earth to terminal 85 this morning, the tow truck came and took her to MR automotive at Redcliffe. I havent heard from them yet, but I am sufficiently nervous. Ill keep you informed.

Best 'o British luck, as they say...

it sounds like the low battery has spiked the Becm. if it has then it will need to be removed, unlocked and tested.
there are some things to try first.
disconnect the battery completely and recharge it. if it is suspect then have a charger handy so when it is reconnected you can provide a full 12.6V with the ignition on (12.6V is very important for LP and LM range rovers).without the battery connected join the pos and neg leads on the car with a jumper wire and turn the ignition to position 2. leave it like that for at least 30 mins. with the door open and igntion on, reconnect the battery making sure you do not ignite any gases and you have the 12.6V.
with any luck it should all be back to normal and you should be able to resyc the key in the drivers door.
this procedure is refered to as a hard reset.
if it still does not work there are more tests to do on the central locking.

The RR is back home and running. All the shop did was replace the drivers door latch mechanism. It was $390 part plus 2 hours labour to fit and reset the alarm system. They said that on Autologic the car had messed up its regional settings (to French/Canadian) due to the doorlatch being required to communicate with the BCU.

I am dissapointed that I didnt order and install myself, but I suspect I wouldnt have been able to reset the alarm anyway.

An expensive exercise but it could have been worse. The bad news is that now my fob doesnt work!? He couldnt get it to sync with the car. It is supposed to sync automatically when you start the car. The light still comes on and the fob batteries are new. I have disconnected and reconnected the receiver a few times, but I cant see how that would have broken it? The fob was working fine before this immobiliser problem occurred. The reason I suspect the receiver is because last night the RR slept soundly. Every time I checked, the BECM light was completely dark. Normally I would see it glowing. If the receiver was broken, then it wouldnt pickup the fob or the spurious RF radition?

As usual, I ponder questions:
- How can I test if its the fob or the receiver?
- What causes a receiver to clap out?
- Why couldnt a LR specialist test both and advise?

I am happy to be going again, but at the expense of some cash and at the expense of my keyless entry.

Thanks for all your help in diagnosis during this mini crisis. Once again I am better informed than before.

Originally Posted by glenhendry

It is supposed to sync automatically when you start the car.

I've not heard of that one before.

Have you tried locking the car then pressing the 'lock' button while holding the key in the locked position? That's what I do to synchronise the key.

Do you have a manual key that you can use ?

By that I mean a normal key without the fob.

If so, take out the receiver and post it along with the keyfobs you have to Lee at Lab Electronics. He will test it and tell you exactly whether it is one or the other.

You will be no worse off without these pieces for the few days it takes.

Your problems are unfolding exactly the same way mine did in March this year.

Dave

Originally Posted by Scouse

I've not heard of that one before.

Have you tried locking the car then pressing the 'lock' button while holding the key in the locked position? That's what I do to synchronise the key.

I havent done that exact thing, but I sure will try. The manual says just start the car, and that hasnt done it. However the manual and workshop both say the resync can only occur if the key lock/unlock or engine start occurs within 30 seconds of a remote key lock or unlock and since my remote key will not lock or unlock, I guess I cannot use that method?