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Thread: Tie down mount points

  1. #11
    Johnnyboynz Guest
    I hear you Ron, that was my concern also, it's secured in a different way to be honest.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
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    further to previous post... used tubular spacers* flanged each end over bolts between rail and floor to account for thickness of carpet/underlay. One length of the ARB railing (900mm) cut in two, is sufficient.

    (* found spacers once used for installing a couple of kids' car seats back in the mid-70s ...)

    LH bolts used existing floor mounted captive nuts. For RHS drilled holes and used 50mm square 3mm steel plates under floor for anchor nuts.

    Usually use 2 rings each side for cargo net etc

    HINT: with the back seats folded forward or removed for a long trip, a small section (50-75mm) of rail can be bolted to the top of the protruding studs securing the body-chassis mounts etc and a load ring attached...provides several additional tie-down options. Remove ring and leave rail in place when not needed.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnyboynz View Post
    Here's what i came up with, flush mounted and galv finish.
    Easy to fit with a hole saw and bolted through. Gives multiple tie down points and i find them to be pretty versatile and plenty strong enough for securing camping gear etc

    How clean it the back of your P38???

    Mine will never look like that... Ah the joys of 4x4ing with a 2 year old Labrador in the back. its all yellow dog hair and sand...

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Gosford, NSW, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    It was written by the then site owner, John Brabyn, who is a Kiwi.
    Don't mention the Rugby !

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