Thread: EAS valve block rebuild - frustration!

Think I've cracked it now. A couple of the new ball valve outlets were leaking. Got it down to just a tiny leak now. Will see how it is in the morning. Might have to replace that ball valve.

Fingers crossed.

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

Think I've cracked it now. A couple of the new ball valve outlets were leaking. Got it down to just a tiny leak now. Will see how it is in the morning. Might have to replace that ball valve.

Fingers crossed.

Mate

Good news, I hope you finally have it sorted!

Steve

Scraped the 4x ball valves. Nice idea to ease swap over to the manual inflation system, but it does introduce more potential leakage points. Might try again in the future with some solenoid valves. For now, I'm just happy to be riding on my auto eas.

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

Scraped the 4x ball valves. Nice idea to ease swap over to the manual inflation system, but it does introduce more potential leakage points. Might try again in the future with some solenoid valves. For now, I'm just happy to be riding on my auto eas.

Well done! Enjoy riding on air

Gary

Still have a problem. The compressor is new and gets to 145psi. But its fighting against a leak. So it takes quite a while. The car stays at height. But with a pressure gauge on the air tank line, the pressure soon drops and restarts the compressor. I can hear the leak, but can't find it. It sounds like its coming from the drier.

Will have to investigate further tomorrow.

Worked out what was happening. In a static situation, the tank air was leaking quite rapidly. Turned out it was leaking through the exhaust in a pulsing fashion. I doubled checked the diaphragm valve and the exhaust valve, but nothing obvious there. Hence the need to whip the valve block out again and check those pesky NRV's.

I'd put the best one I had in position no. 1. The one in position no. 3 wasn't up to the task and was causing the leak. One of the spare valve blocks I had ($200 delivered out of USA) had 2 nearly new looking NRV's and one slightly less good. Out the six, I picked the best three. It seems to be working.

Incredible. Such a small part that represents a real Achilles heel to these cars. As they get older, good NRV's are going to get sparser.

What are we to do about it? Buy a new valve block?

As stated above, I also have another spare 2nd hand valve block - I'll pick the best bits out of the two spares I have, and maintain an "as new" valve block for years to come. What a bloody palaver this has been.

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

Worked out what was happening. In a static situation, the tank air was leaking quite rapidly. Turned out it was leaking through the exhaust in a pulsing fashion. I doubled checked the diaphragm valve and the exhaust valve, but nothing obvious there. Hence the need to whip the valve block out again and check those pesky NRV's.

I'd put the best one I had in position no. 1. The one in position no. 3 wasn't up to the task and was causing the leak. One of the spare valve blocks I had ($200 delivered out of USA) had 2 nearly new looking NRV's and one slightly less good. Out the six, I picked the best three. It seems to be working.

Incredible. Such a small part that represents a real Achilles heel to these cars. As they get older, good NRV's are going to get sparser.

What are we to do about it? Buy a new valve block?

As stated above, I also have another spare 2nd hand valve block - I'll pick the best bits out of the two spares I have, and maintain an "as new" valve block for years to come. What a bloody palaver this has been.

Well done for the perseverance! It probably feels like all your Christmases have come at once

Gary

Re spare parts, I've been thinking the same thing. Wonder if the eas can be swapped out for another air system?