Found this supposedly Aussie crowd too...
Motorcoater Engine Enamel
Just checked out their site and they list a Ford green which looks like it's close.
Found this supposedly Aussie crowd too...
Motorcoater Engine Enamel
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Crossover tube mods. There'll be a 5/8" Barb added for the header tank too..
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Last edited by FIXR7; 6th September 2012 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Shpelling mishtake
Verrrry nice write up, and lots of photos are always appreciated. This will be a great thread for anyone thinking of any big conversion, because it shows all those time-consuming and expensive fiddly bits that make so much work.
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
This handy little device(thanks to Tony)...
Was helpful in doing this...
The finished item...
Here's how the heater tubes lined up with the factory hoses. Pretty bloody good!...
Which allowed me to fit this tap...
Put the rails and injectors on and laid the harness on there. Because I'm using the truck lower it has the ACT(Air Charge Temp) sensor in runner number 6 instead of the usual number 5. So the harness needs opening up to drag the ACT wiring back a bit...
Like so...
Plugged in...
Hopefully next weekend I'll fire it up. Most likely that'll be all though, as I still have bit to do trans wise.
How about a couple of pictures of that special tool? I've been meaning to make one for ages.
I was just thinking that while you're at it and have the access, you might want to put some Dynomat Extreme or similar on that lovely white bulkhead behind the engine. I'll be doing the same thing soon - and whatever else it takes to keep that heat out of the interior.
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
Yes Davo, I was thinking about putting the original moulded rubber thingy back on but it's not in the greatest condition. Probably should have done that before I put the engine back in though. That dynomat mob might have something suitable to cut both heat and noise... of course that heater tap I've put in will go a long way to cut down the heat inside.
For my Rangie, I've got a sheet of Dynamat Extreme for just that area. Looking around, I couldn't find anything else that said it would be okay for the engine bay. As a test, I cut a corner off and stuck it on near a cylinder head and it's been fine so far. So when I saw your photos I thought you might want to do that now before it's too late!
For the interior, I got a pile of something called DBkill. It's about the same thing but apparently not rated for under the bonnet. I'll be slapping that stuff down anywhere I can get to inside the car. I'm replacing the engine and gearbox soon, (as in: sometime this decade), and heat and soundproofing is a priority.
I've got the heater hoses on the Rover V8 bypassed, just with a U-shaped hose at the back of the manifold. I found out that you can't just block them - or put a tap in as you've done. I'll be pulling out the old heater core and not replacing it as there's about eight weeks of early mornings when you might miss it up here, and that's all!
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
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