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Thread: Ikea 6X6D - anyone have an allen key?

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    Hi Diana,
    Did the 80" have CVs? Glad I've learnt my "something" for today
    I had forgoten that yours is constant 6x6, that was way back in the thread
    Still, given the very small steering lock that would be needed on the back wheels, if 40" is 36% of 110" then I assume the rear would only need 36% of the steering lock that the front would need, I would be surprised if the unconstantness of the unis would be noticed. After all Jeeps still use open knuckles with unis in their constant 4X4s don't they? <Yes but they are only Jeeps aren't they!>

    Tony
    Some people call them "tracta joints" but they are a crude CV, essential when you consider a large proportion of the 80" (until early 1951) were constant 4X4.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    Given the small amount of steering lock the rear wheels would need to make a 6X6 steer around the centre axle, would the unis out of a Series work? Or are they weaker then some of the CVs available?
    Or some other uni joint for that matter.

    Tony
    Series front axle UJs are ridiculously weak and puny. They wouldn#t last 5 minutes in a rear-steer application.

    You are right though that you wouldn't notice having unis instead of CVs with rear steer.

    To have reliable rear-steer in a vehicle like that you would need these:


    However Dana 60 CVs would also be fine. Either option would require conversion to open knuckles (swivels).

  3. #43
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    Haven't made a post here for quite a while it seems, but don't think that nothing has been happening.

    The chassis has been repaired. The problem was a little chassis worm, not a lot but it needed to be attacked.

    If you know the 130 chassis my 6X6 has been modified/reinforced in a somewhat similar manner with a section of flat bar/strap laminated on the top and bottom sides of the chassis side rails. Unfortunately, unlike the later 130 chassis the laminates were only stich welded and not fully seam welded. The result was that moisture penetrated between the chassis and laminate, which allowed rust to start forming and then errupt out the top. The reinforcement was removed to reveal only a little surface rusting of the chassis rail, this was treated and then a new laminate welded back in place this time fully seam welded to prevent further moinsture penetration. Both rails had the laminate removed, then repaired top and bottom, although the chassis worm had only attacked the top of one rail.

    The chassis has now been fully inspected inside and out with no other issues detected.

    An Isuzu engine mount jig has been borrowed and the conversion from V8 mounts to 4BD1 is happening this week. And next is the modification to the front dumb irons for the Norforce bullbar.

    Other activity was a trip up to Queensland last weekend to pick up a '96 Defender dual cab body. Thanks to JerryD, the Ho Hars, Mr and Mrs Zulu Delta 534, Juddy, Blk Knight, Hodgo, Tim, and Firey and others for a very social time.

    The body took a trip out to Western Sydney last Monday to examine the modifications that will be required to amalgamate the body and chassis together, and the body is now back at my house.

    The issues are that a Defender 130 dual cab is not the same in the rear floor/wall/wheelarches as the 110 station wagon. I need to modify the flat floor and re-create the inner wheel arches and chassis mountings the same as in the 110 S/W tub. The other issue is that there is a significant reinforcement of the chassis ride rails in the same area as the rear passengers footwell that will require boxing (see LHS of image below). So last evening after work I started removing the rear floor.

    More updates to follow.


    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    Diana, excellent work so far. Would you be able to get some clear close up pics of the rear most trailing arms mounts (from in front, behind and how they attach to the chassis ontop of/underneth and on the inside rail.)

    cheers,
    Serg
    RHS bracket from RHS


    RHS bracket from RHS rear quarter


    RHS bracket underside from RHS rear quarter


    LHS bracket inside - taken from RHS


    LHS bracket underside taken from LHS rear quarter.


    LHS bracket taken from LHS cente axle position


    Hope it is understandable?

    Today I also salvaged the front third of a 110 wagon tub.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #45
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    this is why they were called "Tracta" joints:

    [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tracta"]Tracta - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]

  6. #46
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    Dianna, You no doubt have thoroughly researched LandRover Special Vehicles 6x6 conversions. Have you come across any information on whether they did a thrudrive conversion to Salisbury diffs?
    Bill.

  7. #47
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    Bill

    Nothing to date has revealed such a drive, but you can bet if they did, I would be seeking one.

    In fact given that I have a NOS county Salisbury assembly I have even considered using the current Rover diff thruedrive as a donor or pattern.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Bill

    Nothing to date has revealed such a drive, but you can bet if they did, I would be seeking one.

    In fact given that I have a NOS county Salisbury assembly I have even considered using the current Rover diff thruedrive as a donor or pattern.

    Diana
    Not thrudrive exactly, but many years ago I cut the axle tubes off a series 3 Sals. With the pinion shaft fitted I spun it in my lathe between centres and machined back the pinion housing. I then welded on a steel flange and trued it up with the intention of bolting a Foley style drop box that I fabricated which would have used 3 large helical Lt95 transfercase gears to get sufficient offset for the second propshaft to clear the diff casting.
    Unfortunately I got burgled and the drop box among alot of other stuff was stolen, so I lost interest in the conversion. I still have the diff housing, but being series 3 width and lacking the A frame ball joint mounting on the casting it wouldn't be of any use to you would it?
    Bill.

  9. #49
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    why would they steal that stuff.....bloody

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    why would they steal that stuff.....bloody
    Scrap metal theives. When it was worth over $300 a ton.About 15 tons got nicked including my custom built Dana 60/Sals front/ rear assemblies. Transit/LandRover Diffs, and 3 vehicles. Anything that was heavy and relatively compact.Soul destroying enough if it was just standard off the shelf stuff, but a lot of it was custom designed and made, that I spent countless hundreds of hours and put my heart and soul into making.
    Bill.

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