Thread: Ikea 6X6D - anyone have an allen key?

I often wonder why they don't rig the rear diff with a trailing arm instead of a leading arm system.

If you swapped the brackets and linkages around on a front diff - or welded them to another Salisbury rear, even use the Panhard rod.
That would put the two sets of rear wheels as close as you liked, with the trailing arms chassis mounted about at the rear crossmember.
By using either a front or rear housing you could put diff input in the position you choose either offset for PTO and centre bearing as per Perentie.... or right behind the middle diff for through drive as per Ikea and G-Wagon!

Yes, I often wonder this!

Originally Posted by mrapocalypse

I often wonder why they don't rig the rear diff with a trailing arm instead of a leading arm system.

If you swapped the brackets and linkages around on a front diff - or welded them to another Salisbury rear, even use the Panhard rod.
That would put the two sets of rear wheels as close as you liked, with the trailing arms chassis mounted about at the rear crossmember.
By using either a front or rear housing you could put diff input in the position you choose either offset for PTO and centre bearing as per Perentie.... or right behind the middle diff for through drive as per Ikea and G-Wagon!

Yes, I often wonder this!

I would imagine that you would want significantly stronger radius arms (like those on the front) to compensate for the shock loads when you hit pot holes etc.

Dependant upon the drive type and diff offset, you also need sufficient inter-axle spacing to allow for articulation and and prop-shaft angles/slider joints. A through drive will require a greater inter-axle spacing or have an articulation limitation over a system with opposite diff offsets.

Where did you come across this one. You will need a turbo on the isuzu or use stage one gears as the isuzu wont have enough grunt to push it along with a load on. I'm putting a supercharger on mine so I can run range rover gears because running up the highway at 90 sucks big ones

Just finished looking at all the pictures. You would want to look at getting disc brakes on the rear or you will have no end of trouble with the drums. Series rovers dont pull up and you have one on the back and the discs on the front as well. I converted to discs on the back and a stage one master cylinder. Pulls up like a dream now even when loaded and a fair sized trailer.
The taper on the middle diff wont last off road either I'm going to graft on one from the salisbury as they are a bit beefier.

Those are fairly broad statements, a significant proportion of trucks still have drum brakes and they are hauling many more tons of weight than this Defender ever will. I have had Series Land Rovers with drum brakes that would put you through the windscreen if you were unbuckled, it is all to do with boost and adjustment. Many 1 tonners coming off the showroom floor still have rear drums, just look at the current Mitsi Triton Triton Specifications - Triton Specs - Mitsubishi Motors Australia.

I'm not sure what you are talking about when you mention the "taper"????

Would love a Salisbury on the middle axle and even have a NOS Salisbury rear axle assembly for the job, but transferring the through drive will be a significant bit of engineering work.

You have never shown us the images of your chain drive 6x6 assembly you posted about last year?

I have to agree with Diana - if you compare the braking performance of the rear drum braked and rear disc braked Landrover 110/early Defender, the only practical difference is that the drums need regular adjustment and are more susceptible to loss of effectiveness when wading. In normal operation you would not know which you have. Surely this is a good comparison?

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I have to agree with Diana - if you compare the braking performance of the rear drum braked and rear disc braked Landrover 110/early Defender, the only practical difference is that the drums need regular adjustment and are more susceptible to loss of effectiveness when wading. In normal operation you would not know which you have. Surely this is a good comparison?

John

John

The other areas where disks are superior to drums, is in the heat dissipation. Drums brake systems will liquify the drum/lining interface on periods of prolonged braking such as steep winding decents. Drums also have difficulty in being utilised in computerised braking functions: ABS, traction control, decent control and stability control.

In spite of those benefits, at present I'm not convinced retrofitting disks to the rear axles will be high on my priority list. Active air suspension will be a lot sooner. In the mean time I'm happy to use slower speeds and my gearbox as decent control.

I have however retrofitted Defender ventilated disk calipers to the front.

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

John

The other areas where disks are superior to drums, is in the heat dissipation. Drums brake systems will liquify the drum/lining interface on periods of prolonged braking such as steep winding decents. Drums also have difficulty in being utilised in computerised braking functions: ABS, traction control, decent control and stability control.
......

Diana

I agree in general (although I doubt there is ever any liquefaction at the drum/lining interface) - but the problem with fade on drums is not so much heat dissipation (although this is a factor) as the fact that as the drums expand with heat, the shoes have to move further, resulting in loss of pedal, and, with two leading shoe, loss of self-servo effect magnifies any loss of braking power - but the drums in question are not two leading shoe. I doubt that the difference in dissipation is a significant factor - certainly the disc probably has a larger surface area (mainly because both sides are in air), but airflow to it is more restricted than with drums, particularly with the mudshields in place.

And I assumed there was no question of using computerised braking function in this case. The reason they don't work well with drum brakes is that the servo/anti-servo effect and amount of pedal of the drum brakes changes unpredictably as the drums heat up.

John