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Thread: Ikea 6X6D - anyone have an allen key?

  1. #121
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    Diana, i am sure i suggested a long time ago that you just use a dumb manual setup like i have been running for years. In your case you could add a valve to link the 2 bags on each side when desired. Forget any ideas of cross(axle)linking.

  2. #122
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    Hi Ben

    Yes the plan, as we discussed ages ago, is along those lines. I would like bags on all 6 wheels, just so I can get it into the garage and have highway and off road heights so which controller to use is an issue.

    Won't be cross linking, but will join the two bags per side at the rear together with large bore tubes to reduce resistance and improved air flow between the two bags and to enhance load sharing.

    Still not decided about having lock outs controlled by centrally located solenoids or gates as this will reduce flow and induce an element of lag (wont it?).

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  3. #123
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    Progressing slowly with IKEA, over the weekend I was attempting to solve the problems caused by converting the rear drum to disk brakes. Just to summarise the situation.

    Original specs:
    Defender narrow bearing spacing drum brake hubs, Defender FRC8540 narrow wheel bearing spacing stub axles, FRC8506 30mm spline drive flange. (fitting Defender front hubs or Disco hubs will narrow track by 20mm)

    Modified specs:
    Disco 1 hubs, Defender FRC1740 narrow wheel bearing spacing stub axles (10mm offset to FRC8540) track now correct front/intermediate axle.

    The problem is that by pushing the hub out 10mm the FRC8506 drive flanges sit outside the axle. HTE-859 (late Defender RRc/Disco) 25mm spline flanges are 5mm too short for the halfshaft splines, so to avoid having to replace the halfshafts we are going to modify the (35mm spline) HTE-859X by machining out 5mm of the spline forming a circlip recess and machining down the outside of the hub with 5mm more thread for the cap.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #124
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    Just following up on the above.

    I purchased 4 of the HTE 859 X flanges and machined 5mm off the (35mm) outer face making a 30mm spine remaining and extended the screw thread for the cap down by 5mm and everything fits up exactly as they're supposed to.

    This means that I can use the standard County/early Defender halfshafts with 30mm spline I already have (or the HTE/MaxiDrive equivalent) merely for the cost of the replacement drive flanges from HTE. Barry W from HTE has been notified of the results, so perhaps he could be encouraged to make the flanges to order, instead of having to machine them down after purchase.

    As the hubs are now oil floating, I'm going to retrofit the earlier rear hub oil seal type instead of the type for the grease packed hubs.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #125
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    Did you know that Ikea has an older brother?

    How is Ikea going, anyway?

  6. #126
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    Actually that is a narrow track civilian version of the Perentie 6x6. Quite a few of them about. Brian B (B52 on REMLR) has one in WA.

    I do however know that Ikea has two brothers in Australia, one (a younger version) came in on the same import paperwork as Ikea. I don't think that either of them have been converted to 4BD1-T.

    Regarding Ikea, am still waiting for an Isuzu MSA/MXA conversion kit for the gearbox. But looks like that option, or at least the adaptor shaft, is close

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Actually that is a narrow track civilian version of the Perentie 6x6. Quite a few of them about. Brian B (B52 on REMLR) has one in WA.
    I take it you didn't get to the driveline photos?

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dervish View Post
    I take it you didn't get to the driveline photos?
    No originally I only got blank page for the images, network traffic here where I am.

    However that vehicle despite being coil sprung with a through drive is different to Ikea.
    Ikea is 110 wheelbase between the front and intermediate axles (front of wheel sits almost under the dual cab, just like a 110 wagon), that vehicle is at least 130.
    The through drive is different and appears to be driving off a second rear pinion where Ikea has parrallel shaft to the RHS of the diff body.

    Ikea's diff.


    130 6x6 on Carsales

    Note: The hat on the rear of Ikea's is bolted on where Carsales is a welded-on hat.

    At best that 6x6 is a 1st cousin.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  9. #129
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    piccies required

    I'm back to working on Ikea.

    The mid axle has been installed fitted with disk brakes donored off a 6x6 perentie axle.

    The current issue is mating the dual cab from a 130 to what is effectively a 110 chassis. Have removed the 130 B pillars and door sills and am now installing the B pillars donored off a 110 county. My problem is that there are some fit issues, mainly that the DC cab roof seems to be about 10 mm rearward of the top of the B pillar.

    Could people with 110 wagons take some pictures for me?

    What I'm interested in is:
    1. the spacers/washers if any between the chassis and the base of the firewall where the long bolt goes through?
    2. are there chassis mounts under the rear passenger floor connected to the rear door sill or only to the panel that supports the rear of the seat box (and B pillar)
    3. what are the connections between chassis and the rear of the sill and rear door frame?


    Any pictures will be appreciated.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  10. #130
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    I must of had some people confused today, was driving down the road and spied a 110 wagon in a car park so I stopped and had a good look at the fixings. Hope they didn't report me for placing a bomb or something????

    Looks like the new rear body mounts are too far to the rear so will need spacers which isn't a problem, there are spacers everywhere on most Defenders.

    Still its two steps forward and one step back, I removed the rear fixings and fitted the B pillar loosely into the roof and put in the four screws in front of the rear passenger footwell. Cut out the 130 door striker panel to the rear of the back doors only to find that the outer skin is double thickness so the 110 County B pillar assembly will need to be modified to accommodate the extra thickness. Also need to drill new holes for the Defender door strikers as early 110 have them in a slightly different location.

    The wins today are that the special rear chassis outriggers will be able to carry the rear of the sill panel using standard Defender/110 wagon brackets and the brackets on the angled part of the C pillar will fit easily to the new 40mm RHS removable cross member using a standard chassis bracket. (I can't use the standard 110 wagon removable crossmember because of a large web installed with the 6X6 conversion to stiffen up the chassis.)

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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