Thread: Ikea 6X6D - anyone have an allen key?

Originally Posted by Dervish

Good to hear Ikea is in progress. I'm curious as to how and why the above is happening - I can't make sense of how that will work in my head. It sounds like you've found the information you need but let me know if you still need photos. As for washers in the bulkhead bolts, yes they are usually present (up to 3) but there was obviously some process for determining how many (if any) were needed each side at the factory to get the bulkhead square.

The double cab comes off a 130 which has a blank triangular infill panel in the rear bottom corner of the rear doors and the sill frame which is part of the B pillar assembly goes the full length of the bottom of the doors including the infill.

Ikea is a 110 between the front and middle axles and the wheels and the rear part of the 130 sill want to share the same point in 3D space. Also I need to cut away part of the rear body panel to re-create the front of the 110 wheel arch, which then takes away a lot of the strength and integrity of the C pillar. By grafting the B and C pillar assembly of a 110 I'm returning the integrity of the body and door above the middle axle.

Does that make sense?

P.S. You can see part of the re-created wheel arch in pic on the tilt tray and the problem of the sill where the wheel should be. The other pic is the 130 cab when I picked it up.
In the re-posted image of the two axles installed you can see the modifications/removal of the tray step and to the left and lower than that you can see an additional chassis outrigger immediately above the radius arm bush, this was donored off another damaged defender chassis and will provide the support to the rear of the sill and the rear passengers floor/seatbox.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Does that make sense?

Yes, perfectly. I had read that there was 110" wheelbase to the intermediate axle but I hadn't fully absorbed the significance of it. It's a shame that a regular station wagon crossmember won't fit the chassis, that would've made things much simpler. You've got an interesting problem ahead of you - I'm keen to see how you get on. Provided you can retain the steel braces in the cab rear panel (130s have these, don't they? Or is it just single cabs?) I think you will have strength enough.

Thanks Dervish

I'm intending to use the 130 rear seatbox which the top sits a little higher than the floor in the rear of the 110 wagon. As luck would have it there is a standard chassis bracket unused in the 110 wagon but by adding a removable cross member of 50mm height across those chassis brackets between both C pillars it can carry the standard bracket on the C pillars that usually bolt to the rear floor. I'm confident this will add significant support to the rear of the body, but this will be confirmed with the engineer on his next review.

I'll take some images tomorrow.

Just some images to update the thread.

In the first image I've placed the 110 infill panel in position, you'll note that the rear panel isn't cut correctly, I'm waiting to finalise the mountings and fit before doing the final cut. You'll get the idea of the finish. You'll notice that the red floor panel is sitting up at an angle, this is because it's sitting on the reinforcing web of the chassis rails which is causing all the issues. The white line is the approximate cut line which will allow the floor to sit flat on each side, however I'm contemplating whether to have the middle section slanted along the angle of the web or to cut around the webs and box in just over the each chassis rail.

The second image is a birds eye view of inside. I've placed a length of 50mm X 50mm RHS in place of the new removable crossmember to show where it will mount near the top of the image you can see the bracket not usually used on the 110 wagon. At the bttom you can just see the bracket on the C pillar that usually bolts to the rear floor. Right of frame is the 130 rear panel with wheel well cut away and left of screen is the red floor panel (as described above)

The third image is a profile of the 130 seat box bolted in place. (Note that the front of this has been cut around the chassis webs, so is sitting at the final height)

The fourth image is similar to 3 but shows an intended treatment of the new panel between the seat box and sill/pillar assembly.

Have you thought about the alternative for the floor of just spacing it up by the required amount? How much are we talking about? - not obvious from the pictures.

Hi John

Yes I did consider lifting the whole floor, but feel that will cause issues with the doors closing.

If you look at the last image in the set above, you'll see the cut-out in the front of the seatbox, its only about 35mm. Then if you look forward you'll view a pair of chassis brackets where the rib under the footwell floor rests and notice that these are about level with the slope of the chassis web. The thought were to put a fold at the back of the rib, wide enough to cover the chassis rails (or the whole middle floor) and slope up the rear of the floor to mate with the seatbox cut-outs. Then insert a couple of triangular panels to fill the gap between the outer horizontal floor and the sloped floor. (I can make them on my folding brake).

Of course I could lift the middle section of the floor and leave the outer sections original. However this would mean that the rear passengers would have one foot sitting higher than the other. (Not having ridden in the back of a 110 wagon, I've no idea if this would be a problem.)

If it's only 35mm, I think I'd have raised the floor and the seatbox. You could always leave a suitable little recess/step at each side to accomodate door closing. I think that would look neat enough that most except the eagle eyed rivet counter would notice. The rear seat passengers always like the better view from being able to see over the heads of those up front. My two bobs worth.
Don.

I have a couple of 110 floors and the 130 floor so I may try a couple of different designs and see what works best.

As for sitting higher, the 130 seat box bolts to the rear panel, so lifting the floor will only reduce foot well space.