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Thread: Stirlsilver's Disco Ute Project

  1. #451
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Hope your getting good advice. Maybe autos make up for us less skilled drivers. I have rebuilt an R380 twice and the ZF behind the D2 is still going at more km.
    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    ........

    Maybe we're expecting too much out of what really is a smallish motor allready pushing 2 tonnes. Just because it's a v8 doesn't mean it's powerfull.

    One answer REV IT BABY REV IT!!!

  2. #452
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    Mate autos are for girls or doof doof rice burners That cant drive
    Running away real fast

  3. #453
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    If you are still looking for cooked rover engine bits for jigs, talk to a few of the Sydney based LR workshops, cooked V8's are pretty common and I know there's quite a few sitting around!

    Graeme Coopers, TR Spares (Padstow), LVS, DPL or KLR would be able to help I assume.

    Hope to see this machine out on the local tracks soon!

    Cheers
    Will

  4. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    Hope your getting good advice. Maybe autos make up for us less skilled drivers. I have rebuilt an R380 twice and the ZF behind the D2 is still going at more km.
    Unless we are talking LT95, I would expect a properly set up ZF to be stronger than a rover manual box behind a V8.

  5. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    Hope your getting good advice. Maybe autos make up for us less skilled drivers. I have rebuilt an R380 twice and the ZF behind the D2 is still going at more km.
    Well, the last person to mention this to me was Bruce from Davis Performance Land Rover. He said that the problem is the sprag clutch which doesn't get changed when you fit the 4HP24 internals into the 4HP22. However, just reading the the Ashcroft page on the ZF autos (Ashcroft Transmissions) it is mentioned there at the bottom of the page that they upgrade the sprag clutches due to them being known to fail. I'll have a chat to Bruce again about this and see what he says.

    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    Mate autos are for girls or doof doof rice burners That cant drive
    Running away real fast
    I totally agree! But... the reason I want an auto is so that the tubos don't come off boost when shifting gears!

    Quote Originally Posted by MR LR View Post
    If you are still looking for cooked rover engine bits for jigs, talk to a few of the Sydney based LR workshops, cooked V8's are pretty common and I know there's quite a few sitting around!

    Graeme Coopers, TR Spares (Padstow), LVS, DPL or KLR would be able to help I assume.
    Thanks Will, I appreciate the info!

    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Unless we are talking LT95, I would expect a properly set up ZF to be stronger than a rover manual box behind a V8.
    Thanks for that, have you seen any ZF boxes fitted to larger V8's? Like 5L or so? No problems? Who built those boxes?

    Moving back onto progress:
    I got the ARB locker out of the old Range Rover axle.


    This is the difference I mentioned earlier about the flange being thick around all the bolts. The newer housings have 4 short studs which aren't long enough.




    While I had the diff sitting in the Disco axle I trialed the shafts and CV's from the range rover to see how they fit. The long side seemed fine, but the short side it looked like the shaft was too long. I'm not sure if it is because I'm using shafts that suit a suffix A CV. The photo below is just when I was inserting the long side.


    Does anyone have a good source of information where I can look up the Hi Tough part numbers I have to see if they should fit? In the trial fitment above I was using the old CV's but new ones might be different.
    Short shaft HTE 606662.24
    Long shaft HTE 606663.24

    To finish up, I swapped over some studs from the axle housings so now the diff will bolt in nicely.


    Next steps for the front axle are.
    *Getting clarification of whether I can use the HTE shafts I have or not
    *Buying a set of nice strong CV's - Anyone got a vendor they can recommend?
    *Send the axle off to be rebuilt with new seals & bearings.
    Stirling

  6. #456
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    Tombie ran a 5L Supercharged V8 in his D1 auto, perhaps shoot him a PM
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  7. #457
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    Just call Barry at hitough re the halfshafts.
    Ashcroft CVs. Cheapest to buy direct. While you are at it get them to build you a gearbox.

  8. #458
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    We run in our comp ute maxi locker with high tough/maxi shafts and same cvs as you have as we have early axle housing

    We have had to use as a spare once at mid 90s disco hub - we bolted the disco swivel hub etc complete including the half shaft onto the early rangie housing and maxi locker - we had to do this as exploded a cv (reversing with almost all weight on front right and locker in - poor driving!)

    So one option for you is bolt the entire rangie swivel hub and all other parts of hub - as bushes and cvs etc different - onto the later housing you have

    When doing hub slot the brake line bracket so can remove brake line without having to undo swivel bearing plate

    Advantage of the old cvs is the drive flange is the weak point - with a magnet on a stick you can normally pull the broken end from the cv - very simple fix on track - unbolt drive flange pull broken bit then insert new/second hand drive flange.

    This give you a sacrificial easy fix item in the drive line. In tough tracks comp we have broken two flanges in 3 years.

    If go ashcrofts then you need the later hubs - they are great cvs but leave no release point. Fixing a locker is a larger task.

    But with larger engine may have no choice but to go later hubs and Ashcroft cvs

    Skiboy

    89 Orange Rangie UTE - our play thing - sadly now sold
    75 Rangie/Series/Hybrid/LS3 - Bumblebee with a sting!!!!
    2018 RRS - The new touring vehicle - replaces 2012 RRS

  9. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco Muppet View Post
    Tombie ran a 5L Supercharged V8 in his D1 auto, perhaps shoot him a PM
    Thanks for that advice, I sent him a PM. Turns out that he had no problems with the 4HP24 internals in the 4HP22 box. But he only owned the car for 6 months.

    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Just call Barry at hitough re the halfshafts.
    Ashcroft CVs. Cheapest to buy direct. While you are at it get them to build you a gearbox.
    I think I'll do this, i'm kicking myself that I didn't buy this stuff when that AUD was $1.10 against the USD. Purchases from the UK would have been cheaper with the strong Aussie dollar!

    Quote Originally Posted by Skiboy View Post
    We run in our comp ute maxi locker with high tough/maxi shafts and same cvs as you have as we have early axle housing

    We have had to use as a spare once at mid 90s disco hub - we bolted the disco swivel hub etc complete including the half shaft onto the early rangie housing and maxi locker - we had to do this as exploded a cv (reversing with almost all weight on front right and locker in - poor driving!)

    So one option for you is bolt the entire rangie swivel hub and all other parts of hub - as bushes and cvs etc different - onto the later housing you have

    When doing hub slot the brake line bracket so can remove brake line without having to undo swivel bearing plate

    Advantage of the old cvs is the drive flange is the weak point - with a magnet on a stick you can normally pull the broken end from the cv - very simple fix on track - unbolt drive flange pull broken bit then insert new/second hand drive flange.

    This give you a sacrificial easy fix item in the drive line. In tough tracks comp we have broken two flanges in 3 years.

    If go ashcrofts then you need the later hubs - they are great cvs but leave no release point. Fixing a locker is a larger task.

    But with larger engine may have no choice but to go later hubs and Ashcroft cvs

    Skiboy
    Excellent advice! Thanks Skiboy, I think what I'll do is stick with the later hubs. I can just picture at some point down the track me struggling to figure out what bearings I need to use because I wasn't sure what parts I mixed and matched. Another option to the Ashcroft CV seems to be KAM, it looks like they have the short shaft on the outboard side of the CV allowing easier replacement. Anyone used these guys before?

    Just on a general update, while I wait for an opportunity for me to fetch my test engine in Wollongong to bring it up to my workshop. I've been working on the LPG compensation equations. Since I am using a vapour LPG injection system I need megasquirt to compensate for the fluctuations of temperature and pressure in the fuel rail. I hassled Prins in the Netherlands and even Keihin in Japan on how the Keihin injectors really behave with the various conditions.

    Anyway, I managed to get two semi useful emails out of Prins and it was just enough for me to work out the compensation for rail temperature & pressure. I'll have to code the temperature & pressure compensation curves along with the injection pulse time for 100% volumetric efficiency. Below is a snapshot. When I get the engine back I'll fit the injectors and see if my curves are correct! There were definitely a few assumptions that needed to be made!

    Stirling

  10. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by stirlsilver View Post
    while I wait for an opportunity for me to fetch my test engine in Wollongong to bring it up to my workshop.
    Whereabouts in Wollongong is it?
    It's school holidays ATM & we're often down at Bulli Beach on warm afternoons so I can pick it up if it's not too far from there then drop it off next week.
    Scott

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