that looks pretty tidy...apart from the roll over bits
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
Should only take a couple of weekends to make a really good unit out of what you have there. good score.
A couple of weekends for Andrew and a couple of months for Dad.
I say that because the vehicle will end up in remote Arnhemland, away from too much in the way of mechanical service and with nothing but the roughest roads imaginable.
Here are some more pics of the damage.
Fixing the accident damage is the easy bit - replace the roof, 2 front doors, a windscreen surround and screen and 2 outer guards and straighten & checkerplate the guard tops.
As Andrew says, I am a bit of a hoarder - especially Defender bits. I have all the panels I need to do the repairs - just need the upper and lower windscreen frame seal, a windscreen rubber and the glass.
Vehicle arrives just before lunch on Sept 21
The repairs begin. First assemble all the parts.
Sept 22 - a few spare hours
Next assemble the vehicle to make sure all the gaps are acceptable
Right B pillar has to come forward about 10 - 15mm
When everything is aligned, strip it all down, straighten dents and paint.
We had a good look over the vehicle, checking out backlash, .... and Andrew spotted these. We thought they were the a Bearmach repros, but for those who know!!
Started on the inside - removed the seat, cubby and handbrake ....
Have to get out tomorrow to get the windscreen rubbers etc
Erich
how will you move the b pillar forward?
interested to know as ours could do with moving back probably about 3mm to alow the doors to shut properly
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
Here is our work list for the 130 - mostly preventative maintenance:
Vehicle repairs -
roof, front doors, guards and windscreen and right mirror(from accident)
Replace rear trailing arms (both bent - forklift damage at salvage)
Have tailshaft repaired (salvage damage)
Preventative maintenance
replace all trailing arm bushes
replace all tailshaft unis
steering - new drop arm bush, 3 tie rod ends and input steering box seal
front and rear diff pinion seals
replace swivel seals
front and rear sway bar rubbers
gearbox mounts
exhaust mounts (one broken)
replace all wheel bearings, good hub seals. Replace the TD5 style bearing locking nut with the older TD1 style with the dual hex nuts and locking ring.
new springs and shocks - already has polyairs
A Frame bushes ??
Brakes - pads & discs as required,
new steering wheel - sun damaged
replace pedal rubbers
re-do roof liner - sagging
Engine PM:
full set of filters - genuine
full set of radiator hoses - use only genuine
new water pump - genuine
fan belt
idler pulley bearings
alternator bearings
starter motor plunger kit
flush radiator (by radiator joint)
EGR - remove
check fuel pressure regulator for the slightest weep
check turbo
Fluids
flush and replace brake fluid
replace oil engine, gearbox, transfer box. and diff
Flush and replace radiator fluids - (use glycol product - not OAT)
flush and refill steering
This vehicle appears to have been very well maintained mechanically - needs a good clean on the inside though. (The only oil leak the car has are the front right swivel and a small weep on the rear diff pinion and a small weep on the steering box input shaft)
Extras
Bull bar & winch
Driving lights. rear work lights
Rock sliders
Scrub guards across the front guards
Rear canopy - deck out with storage & fridge slide
Spare tyre holder - for 2 tyres
Long range fuel tank - at least 1 sill tank
Water tank (min 50l)
Dual batteries
Move handbrake
Low water alarm - engine
volt meter
radio / mp3 / ???
HF radio mounts and aerial mount point
UHF radio
Tow points
guard tops
HID headlights
Rear camera and parking sensors
Tinted glass
Seats?
New tyres - wheels?
Full paint job ??
We have probably forgotten something but this is a start. I will try to document things as we go - this will be a combined effort between Andrew, Sheila and myself.
Budget - who knows - $10k with insurance and rego.
Erich
OH BOY
There goes the next few months.......
But......all to a good cause
Sheila (cleaner, grease monkey & chef....)
Looking forward to cheering you on from the sidelines!Great to see a Defender given a new lease of life.
Hoping to get another Defender and do a rebuild on Safara sometime next year...
we use a come-along (a horozontal chain block) connected to a fixed point - in this case the shed frame I beam.
If it only needs to go 3mm, you may be able to get that by loosening the bolts, put in a wedge, then re-tighten the bolts, and remove the wedge.
Andy
any more progress since i left dad? blueslip still on track by friday?
23 sept
Went out and spent bought parts - I needed the windscreen seal ASAP
Windscreen rubber
Rubber under windscreen frame
Full set of radiator / coolant / heater hoses - every hose
Radius arm bushes
Front and rear diff pinion seals
rear trailing arm bushes and rubbers
full set of wheel bearings, seals, lock nuts and tabs
TD5 water pump
fan belt
full set of tie rod ends and drop arm bush
Work done - not much to show for time spent
Straighted right B Pillar
Move hand brake to between the seat and the cubby - this was inoperative and the light didn't work. Found broken wire and re-terminated.
Repair cubby box
repair mounting for cubby box - the mounting screws for this had pulled through the aluminium support. Pop rivet new aluminium angle support strips underneath. This is now very secure.
Remove seat lifting brackets. The drivers seat had 2 rails attached to allow the seat to move further back. The down side of this was that there was no -very limited access to the ECU / Fuse area under the seat
Tidy battery box and fasted down battery.
Erich
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