What a fantastic project and skills.
I was a boat builder and am a bit worried if you are using epoxy under any heat. Heat is epoxies enemy. It could cause it to fail.
Maybe a little research on that before you go ahead.
Regards, Nick.
Ack on the mining companies being big customers.
My exposure to chrome work is via bumper bars and if the panel beating could be done with a solder of some sort as a filler to get the smooth surface, they just need to electroplate copper and then the chrome.
Your just a little closer to the mining industry over west whereas I think down SE Aus probably not that much of an issue.
Will be interesting to see the outcome of your experiment. Just glad I haven't gone an got repo swivel balls if they are that bad where they flake while in the shed.
What a fantastic project and skills.
I was a boat builder and am a bit worried if you are using epoxy under any heat. Heat is epoxies enemy. It could cause it to fail.
Maybe a little research on that before you go ahead.
Regards, Nick.
Cheers Guys
Yes found that epoxy is only good to 100 - 140 deg C , so tonight I run some silver solder into the groove. Silver solder has a higher melting point than soft solder used for electrical wiring but is lower than bronze welding ,which requires the steel to be heated to cheery red.
The housing was heated all over evenly then the area to be filled was heated untill the solder run, then the housing was put into some special crushed rock that holds the heat and slows the cooling process to allow the steel to normalise again. So now to file it up.
Photos , first is after a cleanup grind , second is finished , not going back to fix the pin hole!
Nice work cobber!
The idea of using soft-solder is not a daft one either!
I will resort to that if my epoxy repair lets go - although I have heard from lots of people who have had success with it,
Cheers Charlie
Picked up the swivel housings the other day, they have come up well, the minor scratching and rust pits have all been filled. so now only time and use will tell how good it is.
Have also assembled the rear diff, The diff carrier was worn, the cross shaft was loose in the housing and the small spider gears had worn into it as well so there was quite of backlash in the gears. luckily I had the two diffs out of the old 2a that I wrecked, the front one was like new, so I dismantled it and used the carrier in klonks housing with original crownwheel and pinion. I could have put the 2a one straight in but the diff housing looked out of place compared to the original. It was abit of a job to get the pinion height correct with out the special tooling, dismantled it three times to get the bearing blue printing correctly on the crownwheel teeth.
Last weekend I got some panelwork done. the rear of the tub looked like it had been hit with a shotgun, there were lots of screw and rivit holes as well as extra light holes to be filled.
Also am bogged with the drivers side front guard at the moment, it just wont do what I want it to do. The curve down the front of the inner panel isnt matching the shape of the outer one and every time it gets close the welds crack on the bolt flange and it goes out of shape, then when I repair the cracked flange it stuffs up the rest of the panel. Two steps forward one backwards.
This weekend a sparky mate came and wired up the shed.So now I have switched lights and three 15 amp power points to play with, better than the extention cord I had. Had to dig 5 meters of trench by hand, used muscles I didnt know I had. Now I have to fix the air/con in his Sandman ute, the statesman, his wifes statesman and the cruiser troopy, knew there was a catch.
Cheers Steve
Well easter and anzac weekends are over I can come out of the shed now that most of the loopies and terrorists are leaving town. Its been a big week for the town, the weather and fishing was good as well.
A few more jobs done this week. Dissy overhaul done, had to replace the advance diaphram, opened up the crimp around the casing and cut down a diaphram I got off our local diesel injection place. It came off a diesel pump, not sure what type. Have cleaned up the petrol filter assembley, had to free up the tap and replace the tap seal.
Then I got into the box of allsorts, parts that Ive cleaned up in mollassis and coated in lanolin and put away. These were cleaned up in petrol, damage repaired etc and undercoated then painted black.
Now looking around the shed theres lots of finished and painted parts ready for assembly. I can tell its a LED globe at the end of the tunnel.
Cheers Steve
I've just caught onto this thread and I've gotta say it's coming along nicely, well done![]()
Well Steve I've just read through your entire post. My new computer now allows me to view all sorts of stuff.
Good to read your descriptions to go with the photos you showed me the other day. Your a man of many skills and are turning a basket case into a good restoration. Pity about not doing a correct steering box assembly given the amount of work you have done in other areas.
Cheers
Pete Dunstan
Thought I hadnt done much on klonk lately but looking back on here there is abit to update.
The first is the radiator panel, electrolisis had eaten away the bottom edge so after repairing all the cracks I used sikaflex to glue on some 3mmx40 angle aluminium and then filler to build up the outside smooth again, then the radiator mount was glued back in, this was removed for repair, the horn had cracked a big hole out of it about 50mm diameter. Then the headlight buckets were cleaned up and painted and the chrome bits cleaned with rustbuster, bought them up nice.
Permalink 65 on the linked page shows a photo of the radiator mount removed for repair, sorry but I keep forgetting to take the camera down to my mates shed where I do the welding for a few before and after welding photos.
A well used 80''called Klonk
The driveshafts were cleaned up and painted and two u joints fitted. The other two will be this week.
Have spent today stripping paint off the seatbox lids, gearbox cover and the tailgate. Also etched primed the radiator panel and outer front guards. Its a good check to see how the panelbeating skills are going. A bit of hi build primer should see them right.![]()
And a front guard.
Cheers Steve
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks