Thread: A well used 80''called Klonk

The springs look good. Did you get that done locally?

Originally Posted by 107gus

The springs look good. Did you get that done locally?

No Gus I had the 2 main (top) leaves of the rear ones made in Perth by westraila springs, they made them from the measurements I sent them, they did a good job and Danielle is excellent to deal with, knows her stuff.

The springs were derusted then I made new retainers that hold the leaves in place and assembled and painted them here. The front ones were just a clean up and paint.

Cheers steve

This weekend Ive managed to finish the fuel tank, repaired the carby throttle housing shaft holes and have two wheel rims derusted and ready to paint.

To repair the tank bottom I bought an off cut of 1mm sheet steel, cut to size and marked it out and bent it over the edge of the workbench to fit, used the press at work to press in the dimple for the drain plug then bent over the side edges tinned the joints with solder and run two sticks of solder into the joints.
So now will glue the mount onto the fuel tank with sikaflex and use some PVC glue and primer to line the inside of the tank, just to be sure and then some paint.

The carbie housing was sleeved with K&S 11/32 brass tube, this has the
correct internal size for the butterfly shaft. Then I used a 11/32 drill on low speed in my drill press to drill the housing. The tube was a tight fit in the housing and was cut and trimmed once fitted. Its nice to know that my drill press is true to the table as the shaft fitted straight through rather snugly first time. The next issue with the carbie is the emulsion tube holder, it is broken and the air jet was missing, I have pulled it from the housing and I will turn up a new one in brass but will have to think about that one.

Cheers Steve

Just found your thread , boy does it bring back memories of my restoration of my 1950 80" " Landy" 26 odd years ago. You are doing a top job. You will just have to watch the powder coating as it is porous so water can get through the paint & cause rust under the coating with out you knowing. The powder coaters can put a zinc primer under the pawder caoting to pervent this .

Originally Posted by 1950landy

You will just have to watch the powder coating as it is porous so water can get through the paint & cause rust under the coating with out you knowing. The powder coaters can put a zinc primer under the pawder caoting to pervent this .

Thanks I didn't know about that, but I know he did put the zinc primer on . Was going to put gaters on them as well for protection.

Steve

Well abit more done, Fuel tank mount glued on, PVC glue sealer put inside of the tank and the outside painted. Two wheel rims also undercoated and the others are half done in the mollassis. Second hand shackel bolts and plates were aquired from another 80'' owner in town

Today I spent time sorting out and wire brushing the various nuts and bolts needed to fit the axel housings back together, just waiting for hub parts. Then he will be ready to put back on his feet . But due to the lack of space in the shed I will leave that major event untill after I have rebuilt the gearbox and sorted the engine (repair the oil leaks and paint). So off to shake the money tree to get some parts.

Cheers Steve

Hi Steve, I have just finished reading your post from the start to this point.


What an effort you have put in to date with more to come no doubt. I admire your 'Old School Craftsman' skills, not afraid to have a go at anything and trying to bring the '51' back to where it began. Thank you for the detailed explanation in so many areas.




I have been reading many S1 posts and am extremely thankful for the contributions of so many members with detailed explanations of individual overhauls, A classic example about which I have read from several members would be the vacuum advance of the dizzie, don't just look for a replacement, but rebuild it with available parts and understand it's workings.


We have only just started and it would be nice to achieve half of what you have done. When I first began I was focused on hard to get parts and not the whole job at hand which is the real challenge. I have since found that by getting stuck into things, networking amongst members and researching, things slowly fall into place, for example we have been lucky enough to pick up items such as horn / dipper switch from a Series1 Tragic and a PTO from a person who just happened to have one in his shed from when he removed it off his vehicle over 30 years ago. The PTO output was with the vehicle and the engaging switch came off a vehicle at a recent auction. Now for the PTO tailshaft (not important at this stage). I don't even have a full set of springs and hubs - could rob them off the '53' we have in the workshop, if it came to that, but we are trying to keep this complete.


There are so many others on this Forum giving us inspiration and the drive to get on with the project, getting ahead of myself at times. This will be a slow and careful, squeezing in a few hours on the project, here and there when time permits.






Erich

Hi all,
Sorry I havent been here for awhile, its comming up to grain harvest time and Ive been busy repairing air/cons in various machinery on the weekends. At one stage I had 19 machines to do, only 5 left now.This is my weekend business,on top of my normal day job,then throw in a couple of weeknight jobs at a mates workshop, I dont need any rocking to sleep, just sitting down usually does it.

Erich
Thanks for you comments, this forum has certainly given me alot of help as well, reading your post your getting along rather well.

Have managed to get sometime in klonks shed though. Ive assembled the front diff and the front hubs. The diff took some time as I had mixed up the original pinion shims with some spare diffs ive got, so without the special tool to setup the pinion it was a case of trial and error to get the teeth markings right. The hubs have railco bushes installed and the powder coating is working well, nice and slippery with oil on them.
Also had fun with the diff housing, I sat the hub onto the housing in a vertical position and found it would rock side to side. Looking at it I found one side of the flange was together and the other had a 1/2 mm gap. After using straight edges to measure and check I found that the shoulder that locates the swivel housing and clamps the axel bearing was 20 thou thicker on one side than the other. This must have been from factory as one of the swivel housing flange was badly dished indicating that it had been pulled up tight on the bolts. It took alot of filing and bluing to get it right, but its all good now.

Cheers Steve