Also known as Molasses.
Malasas is what you need to derust. Get a 200 litre plastic drum put about 10 l of malasas in and fill with water. Put the tank in for a week, remove and presure clean, check progress. If needed repeat, It will end up shiney clean.
cheers
blaze
Malasas available from stock feed stores and is cheap
Also known as Molasses.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
1. so went to a local brake clutch shop who could not match the flare on the fuel tank and recommended i visit Enzed which i did. Bloke thought the nut was steel and was going to weld a connection to it, but then he realised it was copper so tapped a thread and bolted this connection to it so that i can run my 8mm rubber fuel hose to it and clamp off. Enzed also did not have a flare tool to match the original flare so this was the next best thing.
Land Rover
1. thought to clean out the fuel tank a little, taped up a old brush to a long handled screwdriver and did some minor initial cleaning of the tank, you can just manage to squeeze your hand through the filler neck
2. next blew into the fuel supply and noticed it was blocked, so found some steel thin rod (see pic) to insert and clean out and now its all opened up and when i blow, nice steady supply of air flows thru, lucky i picked this up
3. then got onto the fan for the radiator, was looking for a suitable bracket and found this L bracket of a series 3 (think its off a seat belt) and seemed to work well, bolted up ready to install at the top of the rad support panel
4. here installed with two bolts and two rivets, tested the fan can work in either direction as stated on the box, happy so far
5. fan in position between the headlights, largest fan i could get that would fit between the lights. needs another bracket for the bottom two holes but will source something for that later.
chemist warehouse has this molasses for sale - might look into this, i don't need that much to clean out the bottom.
https://www.chemistwarehouse.com.au/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
Land Rover
1. did a search in local area to find chemist warehouse sells molasses, cost approx $4 for 500ml so purchased as i only needed a small amount for the base of the fuel tank really
2. here it is, mixed with boiling hot water, 10 to 1 ratio (ten parts water) diluted as its like honey and then poured into the tank, made approx 2.5L of the mixture, what your seeing is the steam from the boiling water in white
3. just put a kinda lid on it and will store for one week or end of this week and then clean out. my only concern is that people say soon after washing out with water and drying the exposed steel begins to rust almost immediately. can i just pour fuel (petrol) in the tank to stop the oxidization?
Land Rover
I tried to use molasses a few times and it just did not work - well not very well.
Phosphoric acid works far better and quicker and doesn't stink as much.
For cleaning and sealing a tank I have used the Por15 tank sealing process and found it works well - cleaning and sealing but is a bit expensive.
I would use phosphoric acid or a rust converter first, then after cleaning out just the Por15 tank sealer.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I will see how it goes with the molasses and refuse to leave for weeks like others have on youtube. Had a look today not much happening, no bubbles or looks of it doing anything but will give it more time this week only though, then clean out and reassess.
1. was working on the bottom radiator support for the fan and ouch slipped whilst grinding a piece of steel to make up a lower bracket, thankfully minor and lucky had my gloves on for some protection at least.
2. bottom bracket sorted and all bolted into position, just needs the wiring sorted later. grille back on and you can hardly see the fan so not too obvious from the outside.
Whilst at it, drained all the coolant in the radiator was filthy, can't remember how many times i have washed out, drained with clean water then re filled with new coolant again. will bring up to temp later in week and see how the water colour fares.
the more i do, the more there seems to be needing doing, it just never stops... also there seems to be a slight lean to one side from the rear measured distance from ground to bottom of guard and there is a 1cm difference between the two sides...
Land Rover
Unfortunately, for Molasses to have any chance of working at all it has to be left for weeks or months.
Angles grinders are a nasty tool - 11 years back cut through some metal and it dropped hitting the grinder that went into my gloved hand - cut into the first knuckle on my right thumb - cut some nerves and a bit of the tendon - due to a recent bad experience at emergency I did not go - 11 years later that joint is seized but doesn't matter too much however you can still see the black of burnt flesh and bits of bone now deep under the skin.
Nasty tool - and they cut through safety equipment.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
101RRS - I don't have weeks to wait for some steel to clean up with this molasses, first time use lets see how it goes. I will prob use something else if molasses doesn't work but...
1. had a quick look at the molasses and appears to be working or at least doing something, it is cleaner at the base but will leave till Friday for the final verdict
2. got onto the foot panels and didn't like the S1 complete unit including both foot panels and centre hump as one unit, closer look revealed they were spot welded so decided to pull apart - prefer single pieces easier to remove later on and handling is easier on my own
3. here is the underside of the welded bits, i had prepared this item earlier so has black paint underneath
4. spot welds drilled out and removed with a chiesel
5. cleaned up, sanded and ground down the hole extrusions left behind on the panel so that it was smooth as, then painted let to dry
6. installed pass side and bolted loosely into position. happy with that, much easier to remove either side in future as well instead of removing all. also ran out of bolts/nuts for these foot panels. still its progress i guess.
Land Rover
1. working on a new revised exhaust manifold flange much better then last attempt, cut off the manifold end of the original LR exhaust downpipe and have managed to fit the flange on and all seems to work out ok. needs more grinding to fit better but getting there. slow process of grinding away till a better fit is made possible. will need to test for leaks once done though.
on another note - the radiator seems to have a small leak so may need to look more closely into this or get a replacement radiator.
Land Rover
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