Thread: Tiny bit excited

I am practically certain it is meant to be flat!

edit - sorry the numbers and pics don't match this time

1. this is the view from either side of the clutch - almost look identical in terms of its protrusion out, will have a closer look of the new friction plate to see for markings for fitment but want to make sure its the right way in this time. my other theory is because I had tightened the fingers so much more could that have led to the bolts rubbing regardless of whether the friction plate was installed correctly or not???

2. the other end of the cross shaft inside the gearbox had this bow - it is thick metal so can't understand how it could bulge like this in its position inside the bellhousing of the gearbox, weird... Anyone suggest a theory why this would bend like this???

3. another view, this led to the cross shaft loosing proper contact the other end because of this free play

4. inside view with cover off

5. inside view with cross shaft pushed out

6. so out came the heat gun, pliers and some timber and a hammer to flatten down

7. as flat as i could get it, seemed to work out ok

8. re fitted into position, this was a pretty easy fix and glad i did it. will stop any movement of the cross shaft backwards and allow for better and correct matching/contact of the teeth (other end).

next is the bread technique to get the spigot out while i wait for my parts to arrive. will do some light cleaning of the flywheel to ensure its as clean as it can be.

2. Someone has used a hammer to engage the spline at the other end when the teeth are not in line! Or accident damage having a similar effect, possibly a stick forced up between the clutch and brake pedals near the shaft.

clutch correct.jpg This may help you with which way the clutch plate goes in . The flat side to the flywheel , the raised side to the pressure plate .
This is a rough Drg but may help drg clutch plate.jpg If the plate is in wrong way the raised section will hit on the flywheel securing bolts if correct way the raised section will fit into the hole in the pressure & can not hit on anything.
The way the pressure plate finger height is set BUT you will need special tools to do itclutch100.jpg

This is what the fly wheel side looks like. Some plates are marked.
.W.

G'day,
Note that the thick cross shaft end thrust plate needs a gasket to stop it from leaking oil.
I use a tiny amount of Black Max silicon sealer when I re-build as a paper gasket seems to cause the bolts to loosen over time.
Good Luck.
Chris

Cannot thank you all for your suggestions and help.
Wayne that hand drawing of the friction plate is most useful - and confirms I had the friction plate in the wrong way round.
Lesson in this - you can still manage to drive a series with the friction plate in backwards...

1. got some bread to do the spigot removal but did not work for me

2. here is the measurement inside the flywheel for the spigot - 26mm (trying to work out whether there is a spigot in there or not)

3. here are the measurements for the spigot on order from Kotara fourx4

4. here taking the internal measurement ID

5. here is the ID measurement off the input shaft of the gearbox 22mm

6. tailgate chain fitted perfectly

7. I now have a drop down tailgate working perfectly

8. rear side of the tailgate bracket

9. chains - one end piece heated and rounded to fit over the pig tail - worked a treat

10. Is there a spigot in here or not??? there is a free spinning spigot of sorts which i cannot remove floating inside - could it have been forced inwards when fitting the gearbox and how best to remove???

I can't answer your questions re the spigot bush but make sure you follow the instructions given by '1950landy' (post 1009 19/8/21) re lubricating the spigot bush prior to fitting.