Thread: Barney - a 1958 Series II

Thank you gents, I'm on the right path now.

What size (cross section) fan belt should I be using?

The old generator pulley appears to be an "A" size but the water-pump and crankshaft pulleys are larger than that, possibly even a "C".
It's no good just ordering from the catalog part number, I've fitted an alternator and the length will be different, I have to get a different pulley for the alternator anyway so I can go to a bigger size if necessary.


Thanks for your advice.
Peter.

Not sure exactly when it comes to automotive, but as a fitter, we match them, so in your case, the alternator would be up-sized a bit I would have thought.

A little more done last weekend.

Starter motor has been tested, cleaned up and installed.

All the brake lines have also been installed. I bought a coil of 1/4 line and bent it into place, and then took it all down to Wayne at Better Brakes Southport who installed the ends on them for a couple of bucks each. Much cheaper than buying a flange tool and doing it myself.
Wayne is a brake and clutch genius!! If you are on the Gold Coast or near to it I highly recommend him.

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I put this one where the old one came off - but it doesn't look right. Should run above the crossmember??

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Another milestone - installed the gearbox/transfer case...

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A very blurry photo of it in place, I'll post up a better one at some point.

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That's it for now.

Cheers,
Peter.

That brake pipe is in the right place. They changed the position in s3 and late s2a to the front x member past the steering relay. The pipe is better protected where it is IMHO. Doing good there.

Cheers Rod

Thanks Rod, good to know. It it does seem to be a bit vulnerable though, right down at the bottom like that...

It should be above the bottom of the x member tho. My x member is bent pretty much but the pipe was ok. Its different now coz i got 4 wheel discs now and i ran the pipe across the front x member to the PWDA valve.


Cheers Rod

Hello folks!

Here's a good little story of the "measure twice - cut once" variety.

A year ago in the disassembly stages I took the prop-shafts off and put them in the restore pile.
When I eventually pulled them out to fix them up I discovered a previous owner had fixed a missing cir-clip problem with a welder and welded one of the uni cups in place!! (that'll never need replacing...)

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No problem said I, that's the exact reason I bought a parts donor... so under I go and remove the rear prop-shaft (you can probably see where this is going already...) fixed them both up, nicely painted, new uni joints all round... and today I discover I'm the proud owner of two rear prop-shafts!!
Never once occurred that they might be different lengths...

WP_20170716_002.jpg So now it's under the donor again to remove the front one this time, restore and more uni joints.


I have a concern about the rear one as well; I've fitted that in, but there is only about 3/4" or less of telescoping movement in it, and that's without the back being weighted. Once that all goes on it will compress further, not to mention suspension movement on the road, I'm concerned it will not have enough room to compress enough if you get my meaning. Any advice on this will be appreciated.

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Some more photos for your viewing pleasure...

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I also made up a bracket for the new alternator; 82 amp I think...

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The alternator came with an "A" pulley but the water-pump and crank pulleys are "B" size, so I made up a new pulley to suit.

That's all this week.

Cheers,
Peter.