Thread: My 2a freshen up

Wet and dried bonnet very carefully


then mixed thinners paint very accurately took a deep breath and sprayed.


end result something I can live with.


So my mantra is going to be hasten slowly with painting


In the light of the above......I've got a lot of painting to do guards, tub and tailgate and don't want to rush it, I wont post every day.


But when I get that sorted and continue deconstruction I will post again as I value and need your knowledge.


Cheers paul

Originally Posted by 1950landy

Hi Paul, How fast drying is this paint, The paint I was going to use dries in less than 2 hr but I can't find the supplier in Brisbane (went there today & the building has been sold & no sign up to say where they have gone)
I have 3 lit's of my paint left but don't think it will be enough to paint Landy inside & out & touch up the chassis were needed. Other 80" LR's I have done usually take 4 lit's

Went to Bairnsdale to get more paint and they gave me the spec sheets


Cheers Paul

Decided after a lot of deliberation I didn't want head lights in the guards.
Being out in the sticks I went for a DIY approach ...........fairly confident it will work, sound deadened the inside at the same time mainly to try and stop electrolysis.
Not being a rivet counter I'm figuring the eight extra rivets that will be seen on each guard will blend into the already rivety feel of the vehicle
will post more pictures when I've painted guard to see how it looks
Cheers Paul

Disconnecting electrics for drivers guard removal I found this...
Could it be a relay for a traxside lightning upgrade are are they a common relay for other things
Cheers Paul

The most common relay for 'roll your own' lighting upgrade. I have them on both my Landrovers!

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The most common relay for 'roll your own' lighting upgrade. I have them on both my Landrovers!

John

So I'm guessing this relay is electrically important..............I will value your input when I'm putting everything back together .
Dumb question ............what does it do? I figured maybe driving lights in original light position
I'm pretty hands on but I'm still learning electrical..............I hope current flows a bit like water, that's how wiring diagrams appear to me
anyway down the track if I'm stumped Ill ask questions
Cheers Paul

Series (and later) Landrovers run the entire current for the headlights through both the main headlight switch and the hi/lo switch. This involves a lot of unnecessary voltage drop, especially if you run higher than standard wattage in the lights.

The simplest, most effective and cheapest lighting upgrade you can make is to fit one of these relays close to the headlights (which are already close to the battery) so that there is minimum voltage drop to the lights. Just run the high and low wires from the switches to the relay, power direct from the battery, and short wires from the relay to the lights (plus earth for the relay). These relays incorporate fuses, which is something Series Landrovers (especially Series 1/2/2a) are short on.

John

Still painting and getting marginally better at it
One guard sound deadened and top coated to finish....... second almost ready to prime and paint. Next big bit will probably be tailgate followed by tub.
Question?...the nuts in picture (windscreen pivot bolt nuts) what is the purpose of the slots? If they are original there was a plastic cover over the end with slots that I prised off to paint them.....the serrations seemed to provide the grip to keep them on
Just curious never seen anything like it
Cheers Paul