Thread: Bought a series2... I think.

There is rarely a need to remove the relay. It can be refurbished in situ, as it can be disassembled while in place. The only reason to remove it is to properly repaint the hole it sits in, rebuild this if it is badly rusted, or, very rarely, if the housing of the relay is damaged and needs to be replaced.

The usual issue with the relay is that the bottom seal has failed and it has no oil in it. This may have resulted in wear of the bushes so that they need to be replaced, and possibly the wearing and sealing surfaces of the shaft may need polishing or even the shaft replacing. These are easier to do with the relay removed, but it is not easier to "remove the relay and then do it".

The seals are easy to replace in situ.

Hope this helps.

Havent had a chance to do much work lately but
YYYEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Finally got it out! Ended up gutting it and cutting it on one side, then smacked the crap out of it with a hammer to loosen it up and jacked it out.
Good news is the metal in the hole is in perfect condition.
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Originally Posted by JDNSW

I think you mean a "rite of passage". And I think your words should read "No mate, you gotta try to do it!"

No! Try not. Do, or do not! There is no try!

Still, I know what you mean. At A Base Workshop, the Army always pulled these to repair them. Heavy gal chain, a PortaPower, about a gallon of good penetrating oil, some gas and around two days seemed to be the norm.

Finally found time to get back to the car.
Rebuilt both prop shafts, but ran into an issue. The slightly shorter one went together and is great. When assembling the slightly longer one I found that once the uni joints are installed the clips are in, the joint can move back and forth into the caps about 4 mm still.
I thought both front and rear took the the UJs. Am I wrong or is there a proftshaft from another model maybe that need 82mm UJs? The part number of the used UJs are RTC3291GKN wwhich I beleive is the 75mm ones.
If everything goes to plan the last of the chassis repairs will get done this weekend and I can begin painting it!

Thanks.

EDIT, There seems to be too much play in the splines so Ill just replaced the whole proftshaft.

So finally after being caught up on weekends for ages I finally have the new tyres are now fitted and should have the last of the chassis repair (rear bar) should be finished on monday and I can finally paint it in the KBS chassis coater I have purchased. Hopefully, things at work will calm down for a while and ill get a few decent weekends to get some work done.
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I like the look of those tyres very Land Rover.........what are they????

Cheers Paul

Originally Posted by bemm52

I like the look of those tyres very Land Rover.........what are they????

Cheers Paul

Silverstone Extra Grip Special.

I think they suit the car well.

G'day Singlecell.

I have been following this thread,and by referring back to the first of the photos I noticed that it has a 6 cylinder grille fitted,horizontal bars,not the checker grille of the 4 cylinder,also that it has what looks like the original horn/blinker stalk on the steering column as fitted to the Army vehicles of the era,they were basicly standard production vehicles but fitted with blinkers,they also had the headlight dip switch mounted between the pedals not to the upper left above the clutch pedal,the paint colour is a slightly different shade of "deep bronze olive" than the civilian vehicles,it has more black tint in it,the Army did not change to the "Lustreless Olive Drab" until our commitment in Vietnam,then only the newer vehicles were painted/over painted,the older vehicles returned home still DBO then sold out at auction,most going to farmers or small businesses.

You are doing a brilliant job restoring it,it gives one much satisfaction being able to do most of the work yourself.

cheers

P.S. That "Bullbar" would have done a Mack proud!