My first series 2a project

**gromit** · 28th August 2017, 11:12 AM

The first bump you hit the ball will probably jump off the seat and release any vacuum.
Easy enough to install breathers. You can buy some expensive kits online with 'billet' anodised aluminium blocks or you can use a few low cost pneumatic fittings and make a small bracket yourself.

I've advertised these kits in the past (I work in the pneumatics industry) but had little interest plus it caused a bit of hassle at work because someone had to take the parcel the to the Post Office (we use freight companies normally).

The fitting into the axle is 1/8" BSP. An all metal swivel elbow needs to be fitted then pipe both axles via a Y-connector to a female fitting and a sintered silencer (keeps the dust out).

Colin

**gromit** · 28th August 2017, 07:08 PM

Here's the parts I supplied. I now use a Y-connector and lose one silencer & one female straight connector.
You just have to make a bracket for the silencer to fit through & screw into the female straight connector.....or you could pay about 4 times the price and get cheap plastic fittings but a nice anodised aluminium block.

Diff Breather Kit by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Colin

**AJF** · 29th August 2017, 06:34 AM

Carlos

is there a part 6 , 7 and 8 to your axel rebuild videos.

I got to the same point as part 5 last weekend.

Anyway, thanks for posting the videos - always good to see what you have done as it let's me know what to expect. Your commentary is the key.

cheers
Angus

**Cap** · 29th August 2017, 06:56 AM

Gromit - yep thats the type I was looking at. In the past I have used a small fuel filter at the end of the hose to stop dust getting in. This was zip tied to the firewall, up where the diesel filter is (for front) and the rear I used the same filter and put the hose up through the gromit where the wiring feeds into the cabin and used silicone to seal it up.

Cheers,

**Cap** · 29th August 2017, 07:05 AM

Originally Posted by AJF

Carlos

is there a part 6 , 7 and 8 to your axel rebuild videos.

I got to the same point as part 5 last weekend.

Anyway, thanks for posting the videos - always good to see what you have done as it let's me know what to expect. Your commentary is the key.

cheers
Angus

Angus - here is what I got up to over the weekend.

Question for the gurus - I noticed the front axle has 2 fill plugs and a drain plug according to the manual. The rear axle only has 2, the fill and drain but no plug at the back of the diff. Any reason why the didnt include the 'extra' filler plug at the back of the axle housing?

Cheers,

**JDNSW** · 29th August 2017, 02:49 PM

No idea why, but they were that way from 1948.

**Cap** · 4th September 2017, 09:34 AM

Picked up a parts 2.25 diesel engine which has seen better days... basically the front rod is missing as is the left side of the block wall lol. Wonder what happened for the rod to part company with the crank, leaving behind the piston? Anyway good for bits like pump, injectors, starter, water pump and so on. I may put up some pics or a short vid for anyone who may want to see what the end results looks like.

**Chops** · 4th September 2017, 09:41 AM

Pics are always good Carlos,,, before and after of course,, especially he old engine.

I remember seeing up near Bright I think, a Suszuki motor which had a fair sized chunk out of the side of the motor,,

**Cap** · 4th September 2017, 09:52 AM

Got no before pics, but I can use my other one as a comparo

**JDNSW** · 4th September 2017, 11:03 AM

The most common reason for a connecting rod failure is probably losing a big end bolt, either failed to assemble correctly, or overspeeding (engine ran away?), or lubrication failure and ignoring the noise too long. Another possibility is hydraulic lock or just possibly, a dropped precombustion chamber.

But it is not a common failure on this engine - I've never seen one do it.

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