Thread: My first series 2a project

I once disassembled a fuel gauge sender, reversed everything (which included bending stuff the opposite way) and got it to match the gauge and read properly.

Right, so ill need to check that too! I thought land rover series remained 'unchanged' for 40 years

Completely unchanged - apart from the bits they changed...

Actually it's a minefield as changes happened mid production so you can't even narrow some parts down to just the Series model...

And even if they did, bits can mostly be swapped, but you have to know about things such as the senders and gauges needing to both be swapped (and this, incidentally, happened at chassis number suffix 'C'), one of the changes that happened at a specified point!

Originally Posted by Homestar

Re the VS - I have some spare electronic regulators that I bought for series vehicles that are far better than the bi metal can - it's a 3 legged unit in a TO-220 package - 12.5 to 28 volt in, 10 volt out and an earth - it can fit in an old VS can as well to make it looks factory - if you want one, PM me your address and I'll stick one in the mail - I even know where they are...

This is the unit - https://au.element14.com/texas-instr...ICONDUCTOR-ICS

I tried the 1.5A 7810 voltage regulator, but it burnt out after only a short time. I was powering just the fuel gauge and temp gauge. I had the heatsink connected to the case for best cooling, which was attached to the firewall.

So I stuck with the bimetallic strip type.

Cheers
John

Originally Posted by JohnboyLandy

I tried the 1.5A 7810 voltage regulator, but it burnt out after only a short time. I was powering just the fuel gauge and temp gauge. I had the heatsink connected to the case for best cooling, which was attached to the firewall.

So I stuck with the bimetallic strip type.

Cheers
John

Interesting, I’ve put a couple in different vehicles and had no issues. As they are only good for 1.5 amps, any faulty wiring, components, etc could easily cause them to go I suppose but under normal conditions, the gauges don’t pull anywhere close to this.

Following up on the VS - so I managed to get hold of a used one (actually, 2 used ones, one with a fried internal and one with rusted shell, but OK internals) and made one good one. I tested this, and then installed. Funny thing is I rejigged some wiring, added a few more and bam, works a treat! Of course wasnt that easy, I needed to think, rethink, blow fuses, rethinking more.... but eventually it clicked.

Looking at the VS, what a simple but flawed design... if that sucker ever drops from a vertical position, it basically turns into a heat element! So a FUSE is required, and this is why the fried one looked the way it did.

Anyway, moving on to exhaust - I got the system yesterday. Tried to install and once again cursing had commenced! How the hell does one put the header pipe in (this is a S3 setup, going under not on the side), with it being one piece that bends up over the gbox xmember? Is there a trick, technique? I tried feeding it from behind the xmember, got 3/4 way through then started bounding up on stuff. Tried other way, from front with the removal of passenger side wheel, still no go. So, please school me on how to do this.

Cheers

UPDATE: to fit the exhaust, one needs to remove the passenger side gearbox mounting bracket. Remove it completely, position the exhaust and then fit it back to that the exhaust sits on the chassis side of the gearbox mounting bracket. So that was finally put in, only to discover the intermediate pipe is the wrong one!!! The joys of building